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Routes in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

AP Treat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alcove Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beast 666 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Browns Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cerberus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Effigy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Energy Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lower Refuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maid in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
On Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T A3
Welton's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whack-A-Mole T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildabeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 598 total · 7/month
Shared By: CCliffe on Jul 26, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb up to a small ledge then up the crack/flake to a good stance. Then continue strait up (a little heady but fun cuz you can't place much) or take a few steps right and make some layback moves to another good stance. Then up to a small right curving overhang that is technical (and a little tricky to protect); you will find the crux here. Then you get the anchors at a nice ledge.

Wild is a common start to Women in Love (12a) and is known as Wild Women (12a). For the second pitch head up some ledges to the left and then up a corner type thing with a bolt. (10- R) Or you can cut into the trees (further left) and avoid the 'R' part entirely. Then finish up Women in Love ~ 11d, 11b, 12a.

At the top of Wildabeast (11d) you can traverse left and meet the crux of Wild if you're really lookin to challenge yourself and then finish up to Women in Love.

Location

Between Wildabeast and Refuse under a small ledge.

Protection

The pro is safe but tricky. small cams, nuts, and finding the placements

Photos

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john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Nice pitch on it's own. Some tricky gear, and somewhat R for the day.

ffa webster '76 Jul 26, 2011

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