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Routes in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

AP Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alcove Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beast 666 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Browns Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cerberus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Effigy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Energy Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lower Refuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maid in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
On Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T A3
Welton's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whack-A-Mole T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildabeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 110 ft
FA: Brad White and Partner
Page Views: 684 total, 7/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Apr 27, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Great commiting aid route. Not much of a ground fall potential, but still heads up for the first 30+ feet. Follow a shallow right facing corner into a beautiful shallow groove with a couple thank god bolts from a free attempt (successful-Dave Sharrat 13+r. Around into another shallow right facing corner and the anchors

Location

This route begans right of Wild Women and left of the beast and the alcove.

Protection

Nailing rack, rp's, cam hooks, single set cams with mostly small.

Photos

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john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
If the bolts are not needed for either aid or free- they should be removed Jan 16, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
Maybe after the second ascent... I was just rereading my post and Jay's, he chimneyed that groove!!! That being said this route free or aid is one of the most beautiful routes on the cliff. Still needs a second pitch, hooking or face climbing! Jan 16, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Sounds like the bolts should be moved then. If they are going to be there, they should at least be in the best spots, n'est-ce pas? Jan 13, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
I'm not sure exactly where the bolts came from, I was told it was from the free attempt. I added a bolt to the anchor thinking of a second pitch (all I did was think about it) and did not clip the bolts on my aid ascent. The bolts are unnecessary for aid climbing and would take away from the fun. As a free route I don't know how the pro would be. Scary! May 28, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
The free route is called 0.6, and it is 13c. My understanding is that Dave did not add bolts to this route. The two bolts were from aid climbers, as they really seem to be in the wrong place for free climbing (especially the second one).

0.6, by the way, is unique in the fact that it may be the only route in the East with a 5.13 chimney crux on it. May 27, 2009