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Routes in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

AP Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alcove Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beast 666 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Browns Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cerberus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Effigy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Energy Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lower Refuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maid in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
On Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T A3
Welton's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whack-A-Mole T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildabeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,099 total, 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 30, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

These are not really routes on their own but I think they should have their own description because so many people do just these sections with out continuing up. Also because there is so little at Cathedral that stays dry in the rain.

That being said, down and to the left of Recompense there is an alcove that has a roof above housing two nice short cracks ending at an anchor. They both stay dry in steady rain. The right leaning crack that starts on the left is the start to a demanding 5.11+ pitch (The Beast 666).

Alcove Left Crack: (5.10c) Pretty easy to pick it out. A really nice right leaning crack that is a little harder than it looks but it protects well and gets you a workout on a rainy day. If it is dry and you are strong, continue out the roof and in to the off width above at 5.11+.

Alcove Right Crack: (5.10a) This line doesn't look as perfect at first glance but is a technical good time and might work better for you if the more powerful left crack shut you down. Climb the corner with perfect pro and interesting moves to a perplexing finish on to a good stance. Same anchor as above route.

Location

From the start of Refuse scramble up a couple ledges to a nice flat terrace and you can't miss them.

Protection

Both routes protect well with small to mid cams and some nuts.

Photos

PJ Benson
Jackson, NH
PJ Benson   Jackson, NH
The right crack was cleaned thoroughly today. I have never climbed through more spiders and webs in my life, bring a stick to clean with when you go. Cool route with the toughest move being the step left onto the ledge at the top IMHO. Jul 29, 2016
RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, China
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, China
These cracks are not a bad option to do some cragging when its raining (lightly) at Cathedral. But don't expect the alcove overhang to be a ton of help in keeping the routes all that dry if the rain is steady. The left crack was nice and slimy after repeated May rain storms.

Fun little pitch, though. Great corner jamming and stemming with some strategic, small face holds right when you need them. Get some gear in early to protect yourself from hitting the giant ledge off the start. #2 cam is the biggest you reasonably need. Bigger cams can fit in at the top, but you'll likely be a bit pumped and the bolt anchor is not far off! Jun 6, 2014
Annaconda
Seattle, WA
Annaconda   Seattle, WA
I agree with a "PG" rating for the crack to the right: Technical 9+ with a committing step-over at the top. I have taken the fall on it and its not bad, just gets the heart rate up ... Aug 4, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.10
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.10
I think the left crack is a .10b and the right is .9+PG Sep 11, 2009
Tim J.
Loudon, NH
Tim J.   Loudon, NH
Beware the bumblebees that live in the left crack just below the pin. They look cuddly and cute but as I discovered today they do actually sting. Jul 19, 2009