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Routes in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

AP Treat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alcove Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beast 666 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Browns Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cerberus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Effigy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Energy Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lower Refuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maid in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
On Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T A3
Welton's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whack-A-Mole T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildabeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: not sure
Page Views: 1,201 total · 10/month
Shared By: john strand on Oct 30, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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A nice moderate route with good pro. Below and left of the Beast or right of Funhouse is a small slab with a couple of bolts. AP climbs the right hand arete with a couple of pins and a bolt.


Go about 150' ? right of Funhouse.


pretty good, tree anchor


Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
This was a fairly popular route back in the early 80's, but seemed to lose it's popularity shortly thereafter. It is a fun route with interesting moves but needs a good cleaning. I haven't seen anyone on this route in 20+ years. Sticks and Stones is just to the left for a heart pounding! Jun 23, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Wow- 20 years. I always thought this was decent route at a moderate grade. not to many of those on Cathedral. Whack a Mole/ Sticks has had 3 ascents ? I must be real stupid 'cause I've done it twice Jun 23, 2010
good little route, used to do it all the time when guiding.
Jun 24, 2010
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
AP has been totally cleaned and restored to its original condition after three days of scrubbing. It is a really fun climb with reasonable (albeit spaced) gear with a pin at mid height. The 1/4" has been replaced. It has been seeing some traffic lately which is great to see! Give it a try and while you are at it, the 5.10 15' to the right of it is a great pitch too! Aug 9, 2010
Edge   R.I.P.
Thanks for cleaning this Chris. I did it today, first time in something like 28 years, and it climbed just as nice as I remembered it. There is only one pin at mid height and one bolt near the top; the first pro is a mid sized stopper or cam about 30 feet up and 6 feet below the pin, and a fall before that would not be pretty. Fortunately the moves are not bad. Nov 3, 2012
Bob A  
  • * Gear beta spoiler***
There is a small cam(micro) in the seam partway into the start of the first real friction moves.A little heady for sure.
When Chris and I cleaned this up a few years back we also noticed an old 1/4 inch hole down low on the route which would protect those first moves from groundfall.
Anybody know the history behind that??
Original,added later and removed?? May 13, 2014
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
i never remember a bolt down low, but weren't there 3 ? pins ? May 13, 2014
Bob A  
only one pin John.
It is a bugaboo I think at least halfway up and off to the right before you step left to the final rails and bolt near the top.
On another note,a friend scrubbed Wack-a-mole/Sticks last year and we just replaced the bolt on 5-13-14.
This may see another accent this year!
A couple of people are "interested".
John do you know if that moderate short crack on the very left end of the slab has been done?Just curious as I am giving it a good cleaning.It will be a nice little 5.5? or so gear route to add to the area.
We are thinking of cleaning the whole Sticks slab.Alot of work for sure! May 15, 2014

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