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Routes in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
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Alcove Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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AP Treat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Beast 666 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Brown's Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cerberus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Effigy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Energy Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Lower Refuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Maid in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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On Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T A3 |
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Talcum Powder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Welton's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Whack-A-Mole T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c X |
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Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wild Women T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wildabeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | J Turner and R Wilmot, may 1960 |
| Page Views: | 3,121 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Aug 23, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
So you want to climb off-widths huh? Well here is a start anyway. There are 2 OW sections on this climb. Neither is very difficult, but both give you a look down that very long tunnel leading to hard off-width climbing. Just a look...
Pitch 1: (5.7) You start just right of Brown's Fist and climb up and right around the corner into a chimney with a bunch of jam cracks of different sizes and shapes in it. I found this section to be really fun. At a good stance the climbing changes to a short 5.7 off-width. Work your way up this to a ledge with a thread anchor.
Pitch 2: Climb the intimidating wide crack above. Though it looks like an off-width, no true off-width technique is needed. Grunt your way through and up on to the tree ledge at the base of the Book of Solemnity (5.10a).
There used to be a tree that could be climbed to get around the crux of pitch two, but all good things must come to an end. Now you are forced to climb the rocks.
Pitch 1: (5.7) You start just right of Brown's Fist and climb up and right around the corner into a chimney with a bunch of jam cracks of different sizes and shapes in it. I found this section to be really fun. At a good stance the climbing changes to a short 5.7 off-width. Work your way up this to a ledge with a thread anchor.
Pitch 2: Climb the intimidating wide crack above. Though it looks like an off-width, no true off-width technique is needed. Grunt your way through and up on to the tree ledge at the base of the Book of Solemnity (5.10a).
There used to be a tree that could be climbed to get around the crux of pitch two, but all good things must come to an end. Now you are forced to climb the rocks.
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