Avg: 2.3 from 16 votes
Routes in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
|AP Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Alcove Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Beast 666 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Browns Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cerberus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13|
|Effigy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Energy Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Lower Refuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Maid in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|On Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T A3|
|Welton's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Whack-A-Mole T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X|
|Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Wildabeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|FA:||J Turner and R Wilmot, may 1960|
|Page Views:||1,523 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Aug 23, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionSo you want to climb off-widths huh? Well here is a start anyway. There are 2 OW sections on this climb. Neither is very difficult, but both give you a look down that very long tunnel leading to hard off-width climbing. Just a look...
Pitch 1: (5.7) You start just right of Brown's Fist and climb up and right around the corner into a chimney with a bunch of jam cracks of different sizes and shapes in it. I found this section to be really fun. At a good stance the climbing changes to a short 5.7 off-width. Work your way up this to a ledge with a thread anchor.
Pitch 2: Climb the intimidating wide crack above. Though it looks like an off-width, no true off-width technique is needed. Grunt your way through and up on to the tree ledge at the base of the Book of Solemnity (5.10a).
There used to be a tree that could be climbed to get around the crux of pitch two, but all good things must come to an end. Now you are forced to climb the rocks.
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