All Locations > New Hampshire > Cathedral Ledge > Beast Alcove & Refuse…

Lower Refuse

Name: Lower Refuse
Rating: 2.2

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alcove Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	AP Treat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Beast 666 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Brown's Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cerberus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
	Effigy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Energy Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Lower Refuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Maid in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	On Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Piledriver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T A3
	Welton's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Whack-A-Mole T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c X
	Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Wild Women T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Wildabeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type:	Trad
GPS:	44.06369, -71.16567
FA:	J Turner and R Wilmot, may 1960
Page Views:	3,413 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Lee Hansche on Aug 23, 2007
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

So you want to climb off-widths huh? Well here is a start anyway. There are 2 OW sections on this climb. Neither is very difficult, but both give you a look down that very long tunnel leading to hard off-width climbing. Just a look...

Pitch 1: (5.7) You start just right of Brown's Fist and climb up and right around the corner into a chimney with a bunch of jam cracks of different sizes and shapes in it. I found this section to be really fun. At a good stance the climbing changes to a short 5.7 off-width. Work your way up this to a ledge with a thread anchor.

Pitch 2: Climb the intimidating wide crack above. Though it looks like an off-width, no true off-width technique is needed. Grunt your way through and up on to the tree ledge at the base of the Book of Solemnity (5.10a).

There used to be a tree that could be climbed to get around the crux of pitch two, but all good things must come to an end. Now you are forced to climb the rocks.