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Routes in Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cosmic Messenger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mad Dogs Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torque Converter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Henry Barber, Ajax Greene, 5/1975
Page Views: 1,295 total · 12/month
Shared By: Alexey Zelditch on Feb 18, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The route mostly right facing flake with different jamming. Boldery start on left from pedestal and easier start on right to establish in the crack. Than layback over small rooflet and than strangely strenuous overhanging hands and thin hands to the last roof. There are a big distance between tight hands jams at the crux, so work with your feet and body position to reach them.
In the end of the roof fixed gear and slings allowed you to be lowered with 70 m rope. The other choice - continue traverse (~10-15 feet) right to to bolts anckor ( presumably crux of the route, but I did not tried )

Location

Next to Entrance Exam ( right)

Protection

3x 0.5" to 2", 2#3 , one 3.5" 70m rope

Photos

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cleaned by Kevin Worrall, Mark Chapman, 1975 FA: Henry Barber, Ajax Greene, 5/1975 Jan 6, 2012
DylanJK
Berkeley, CA
 
DylanJK   Berkeley, CA
 
there are rap bolts at the start of the traverse. ? Jan 16, 2018
Brian Ketron  
 
Anchor was added last year above traverse.
Allows one to avoid the only crappy part of this amazing route. Feb 14, 2018

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