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Blotto AKA Axis
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 22
votes
Routes in Ad. Arch Rock
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Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cosmic Messenger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inner Sanctum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Klemens Escape T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mad Dogs Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweet Thing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Torque Converter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 37.6893, -119.7334 |
| FA: | Henry Barber, Ajax Greene, 5/1975 |
| Page Views: | 2,606 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Alexey Zelditch on Feb 18, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The route is mostly a right facing flake with various jamming. A bouldery start on the left from a pedestal or an easier start on right to get established in the crack. Layback over a small rooflet, and then strangely strenuous overhanging hands and thin hands to the last roof. There is a big distance between tight hands jams at the crux, so work with your feet and body position to reach them.
At the end of the crack is a bolted anchor that lets you lower with a 70 m rope. The other choice - traverse ~15 feet right to another bolted anchor (presumably crux of the route, but I did not try it).
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