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Routes in 04 - Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cosmic Messenger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mad Dogs Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torque Converter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredricks,Larry Marshik,Jim Bridwell 8/65
Page Views: 5,161 total · 41/month
Shared By: armand rollice on Feb 26, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Taken from supertopo. Feels like 5.10 and is good Steck Salathe training. Awkward moves around blocks occasionally interupt classic chimney climing. You may want to bring extra wide gear for the chimney runouts.

Location [Suggest Change]

Arch Rock. 200 yards before the Arch rock entrance station

Protection [Suggest Change]

Nuts:One set;Cams:1ea 1.5-2",2ea 3-10" (Optional:additional 10")
Rappel most routes with two 50m or 60m ropes.

Photos

snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
 
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
 
If you don't bring 10 inch gear the first pitch is very x rated for 60 plus feet until you get good gear below the sandy slopey block pull to the first belay. Feb 15, 2009
Adam P.
San Jose, CA
 
Adam P.   San Jose, CA
 
I would have to disagree with Mr. Mooring's comments regarding the need for a 10 inch piece of gear. From my experience (I've done the route twice), I brought the old school BD #5, #4.5 and #4 Camalot's which more than adequately protected the first pitch. This route is a phenomenal climb, and I would highly recommend it. Oct 19, 2009
Knee pads! Apr 11, 2010
squiddo Marc
Mountain View, CA
squiddo Marc   Mountain View, CA
Hey Rob, ha bummed we didnt get to chat yesterday after you did this. Knee pads big time. Apr 11, 2010
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Did this in 06. Very memorable route. I pushed an old #5 Camalot almost the entire length of pitch 2 and it protected like a dream. I thought getting past the block of pitch 3 was the crux. Aug 24, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.9
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.9
The climb is very well protected. I brought cams through #6 and was able to push them most of the way on all pitches. There is only one part where you need larger gear to place (#4 Big Bro), but it is short and easy enough that if you are comfortable on this route, it is much easier to run through that section than to hang out placing a bro.

P3 crux flare was really fun to work out!

Photos leading the route. May 4, 2013
Anthony H
Mountain View, CA
 
Anthony H   Mountain View, CA
 
I'd recommend bringing single set of small cams down to yellow aliens on top of the big gear. They come in handy in the flare chimney on P3, and in protecting the crux move around the block on P1. Nov 4, 2015
David Bruneau
St. John
  5.10a
David Bruneau   St. John
  5.10a
We learned a lot on this route. It took us about as long as the entire Serenity-Sons combo as our chimney technique was a bit rusty...

The supertopo "doubles to 10" " rack recommendation is overkill - the blue big bro we brought didn't get placed. The route protected really well with 4, 5 and 6 camalots. Agreed that it "Feels like 5.10", fist jamming over the second roof via the left crack was strenuous but still more inviting than the wider option. Oct 20, 2016
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
 
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
 
This was probably the most physically strenuous 5.9 I've ever climbed. It's kind of hard to accurately grade this type of climbing using the YDS, but it scored 12 dry-heaves on my personal exertion scale, so plan accordingly. Also, if you plan to climb Entrance Exam, take the time to say one last goodbye to your knees. I'm in awe of the first ascentionists climbing this without sticky rubber or modern protection. Those guys were truly on another level.

10" gear was definitely not necessary; it protected just fine with gear to a #6 Camalot. Feb 12, 2018

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