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Routes in 04 - Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cosmic Messenger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mad Dogs Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torque Converter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: James Lombard, Brian Ketron (11/97)
Page Views: 287 total · 9/month
Shared By: EJoe on Nov 24, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a really hard "boulder problem" of a climb where the shortness of the route concentrates the difficulty. Begin at the start of Goldilocks, then move up and right to the first bolt. Go around the arete to a very thin flake system and follow this to the anchor.

The crux is basically between bolts 1 - 4 and involves shouldery gastons, sidepulls, power crimps, and opposition off mediocre feet. Can be TRed by rappelling the first pitch of English Breakfast Crack.

I've seen this listed between 12b and 12c. It could be a style thing, but the climb felt stout for the grade.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just right of Goldilocks

Protection [Suggest Change]

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor

Photos

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Fear of grading this route too soft led me to originally call this route 12b.
Years later with no ego attached, I feel it's solid at 12c. Jan 20, 2017

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