Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: James Lombard, Brian Ketron (11/97)
Page Views: 813 total · 11/month
Shared By: EJoe on Nov 24, 2015
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

This is a really hard "boulder problem" of a climb where the shortness of the route concentrates the difficulty. Begin at the start of Goldilocks, then move up and right to the first bolt. Go around the arete to a very thin flake system and follow this to the anchor.

The crux is basically between bolts 1 - 4 and involves shouldery gastons, sidepulls, power crimps, and opposition off mediocre feet. Can be TRed by rappelling the first pitch of English Breakfast Crack.

I've seen this listed between 12b and 12c. It could be a style thing, but the climb felt stout for the grade.

Location

Just right of Goldilocks

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor

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