Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: James Lombard, Brian Ketron (11/97)
Page Views: 326 total · 9/month
Shared By: EJoe on Nov 24, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a really hard "boulder problem" of a climb where the shortness of the route concentrates the difficulty. Begin at the start of Goldilocks, then move up and right to the first bolt. Go around the arete to a very thin flake system and follow this to the anchor.

The crux is basically between bolts 1 - 4 and involves shouldery gastons, sidepulls, power crimps, and opposition off mediocre feet. Can be TRed by rappelling the first pitch of English Breakfast Crack.

I've seen this listed between 12b and 12c. It could be a style thing, but the climb felt stout for the grade.

Location

Just right of Goldilocks

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor

Photos

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Brian Ketron  
 
Fear of grading this route too soft led me to originally call this route 12b.
Years later with no ego attached, I feel it's solid at 12c. Jan 20, 2017