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Routes in 4 - Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Barry Bates and Bev Johnson
Page Views: 1,964 total, 21/month
Shared By: Alexey on Feb 18, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

One of the few thin cracks at Arch rock.
Climb first 20 feet junk to tree where the clean left facing corner starts.
Fingers and off fingers jamming in the corner to the small flare to the 2 bolts ancors

Location

Start at the left side of Arck Rock- the same corner as Anticipation

Protection

From green Aliens to Yellow camelot.
I would recommend triple for Red Alien and Green Cam Junior

Photos

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Michael Dom  
 
It would be significantly better if you didn't have to climb the choss below the tree. Good warmup for the area. Dec 12, 2016
nkane
 
nkane  
 
Very nice route. Full value at 10c. One can lower with a 70m, but we got our rope stuck in the tree on the pull. It might be worth doing a second rap off the tree to avoid annoyance. Nov 7, 2016
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
the second pitch has different name. It called "Intersanctum" and done by Dan McDevitt around 2010 Jan 19, 2016
bud miller
SAR site, Camp4
bud miller   SAR site, Camp4
The second pitch is really great as well. Little easier but with some great roof under clinging and moderate bolted face climbing at the top. Don't skip it! Jan 19, 2016
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Deserves more stars than Reid gives it, for sure. Lots of 1" liebacking with fingerlocks interspersed. Clean, quality, recommended. May 23, 2010
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
There is a new well bolted route just made by Dan McDevitt early this year. It start at the top of Supplication as it continuation.
I met Dan when he was working on it - but never tried. He said it 11c if you do not use adjacent crack and about 11a if you use it.
The name of the route is Inner Sanctum [I think I got the name right?] Feb 18, 2010