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Routes in 4 - Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Fredericks & Kim Schmitz, July 1966 FFA: Jim Bridwell, 1971
Page Views: 3,807 total, 32/month
Shared By: Dennis on Feb 21, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This route is similar to Midterm in that it calls upon many different techniques from fingers to chimney. The first pitch has the wide, the second involves steep, gorgeous finger jamming with an interesting and awkward finish.

Location

15 feet to the left of Midterm.

Protection

Cams to 6", doubles in the .5-1" recommended.


Rap anchors at the top of each pitch. Definitely ok with one 70m, probably fine with one 60m.

Photos

Michael Dom  
 
I led this with 2 #5s hoping that it would compensate for a #6. They don't. Also, save a .75 for the mini roof pull that you do after the first wide section. Oct 4, 2017
mpech  
a single 60M rope gets you down from the top of the second pitch.

There are currently about 4 different 0.75 camalots stuck deep in the crack at the crux roof spot on pitch 1-- if it isn't obvious, don't place a piece of pro right at the lip! Nov 10, 2014
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Better save some juice for the top on the onsite attempt. Great, great climb. Jan 22, 2013
FA: Chris Fredericks, Kim Schmitz, 7/1966
FFA: Jim Bridwell, by 1971 Jan 7, 2012
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
I got hosed with rope drag doing it in one pitch. I would do it in 2 pitches (next time) especially since the belay stance is pretty decent. You can get down with one rope. Large cam is very useful! Feb 14, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Take at least 1 very large cam, and save some .5-.75" stuff for the crux finish. With a lot of slings, this goes as a fabulous single pitch. May 22, 2010
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
As of march 2010- old bolts at the top of second pitch was replaced by new/good .
Also intermediate slings/cluster at the top of p1 one was completely removed. Now it is is safe to rappel English Breakfast, but you need two ropes Mar 22, 2010