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Routes in 4 - Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Barry Bates, Peter Haan, 10/1971
Page Views: 1,151 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Jun 2, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This clean crack is often overlooked. Big fists in a mostly clean corner on 2nd pitch ending at a new bolted anchor/rap station. Stars for the 2nd pitch. Can link P1 and 2.

Location

Just right of Supplication

Protection

Other than 3.5 and 4 Camalots I only found a spot for one other piece of gear at the start and a tipped out 3 higher up.

Photos

- No Photos -
Mark P Thomas
Draper
Mark P Thomas   Draper
From the top of Supplication it appeared that this route is capped by a chockstone and a large hummock. Assuming these two routes share the same anchor, that would be a really crappy end of the climb. Or does this one have separate anchors before/beside that thing? It sure looked like fun, otherwise. Jan 26, 2013
Alexey
San Jose
  5.9
Alexey   San Jose
  5.9
very good route to practice hand stacks and calf lock.
About 45 feet of #4 friend and #4C4.
less than vertical, but knee is never in. Too big for fist or capped hands ( for me) too small for arm bar Jan 2, 2013
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I'm surprised this doesn't get done more because it's both an excellent climb and probably the easiest at Arch Rock. This is a good intro to 5.9 OW. The friction is good, the climbing is less than vertical, and you can usually reach in deep for a fist jam. Definitely easier than the 5.9 OW on Midterm, or the 5.9 OW on p2 of Reed's Direct. You can safely protect it with two #4 camalots. Just stick them in and scoot them up with you the whole way. You could do the same with a single #4, but it would be scary. Jan 30, 2011