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Routes in 4 - Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cosmic Messenger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mad Dogs Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torque Converter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Barry Bates, Peter Haan, 10/1971
Page Views: 1,184 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Jun 2, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

This clean crack is often overlooked. Big fists in a mostly clean corner on 2nd pitch ending at a new bolted anchor/rap station. Stars for the 2nd pitch. Can link P1 and 2.

Location

Just right of Supplication

Protection

Other than 3.5 and 4 Camalots I only found a spot for one other piece of gear at the start and a tipped out 3 higher up.

Photos

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Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I'm surprised this doesn't get done more because it's both an excellent climb and probably the easiest at Arch Rock. This is a good intro to 5.9 OW. The friction is good, the climbing is less than vertical, and you can usually reach in deep for a fist jam. Definitely easier than the 5.9 OW on Midterm, or the 5.9 OW on p2 of Reed's Direct. You can safely protect it with two #4 camalots. Just stick them in and scoot them up with you the whole way. You could do the same with a single #4, but it would be scary. Jan 30, 2011
Alexey
San Jose
  5.9
Alexey   San Jose
  5.9
very good route to practice hand stacks and calf lock.
About 45 feet of #4 friend and #4C4.
less than vertical, but knee is never in. Too big for fist or capped hands ( for me) too small for arm bar Jan 2, 2013
Mark P Thomas
Draper
Mark P Thomas   Draper
From the top of Supplication it appeared that this route is capped by a chockstone and a large hummock. Assuming these two routes share the same anchor, that would be a really crappy end of the climb. Or does this one have separate anchors before/beside that thing? It sure looked like fun, otherwise. Jan 26, 2013

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