Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: Mark Chapman, Jim Donini 1974
Page Views: 5,217 total · 26/month
Shared By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

The second pitch of this climb is easily the best pitch of this grade at Arch. Apparently there is also a loose pitch 3, but no one ever does it.

Pitch 1: This pitch is really an approach pitch and the climb would be better if you could avoid it. Start on the dirty face with a long right facing corner and another left facing one on either side of you. Climb the face to a tree (5.8) and then traverse left into an obvious fist crack. Belay at the base of the main corner (5.9).

Pitch 2. Climb the thin hands in the corner, and start stemming as the crack narrows down. It helps to have tiny fingers (11a). Move right (10+) and up to hole under a roof with thin hands in the back. It is possible to get a hands free rest by leaning the back of your head on the rock in the hole. Move up on thin flaring hands and a good undercling jug and then right into the final corner. A huge reach gains you a finger lock (11b). The pitch remains sustained.

Location Suggest change

This is the leftmost right facing corner at the arch. It is about 100 or so yards to the left of midterm. Rappel the route, or do a dirty pitch to the top and descend.

Protection Suggest change

Double up to 3'' + some small nuts. Cam number 4 is useful at the belay.