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Routes in Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cosmic Messenger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mad Dogs Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torque Converter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Chapman, Jim Donini 1974
Page Views: 3,554 total · 26/month
Shared By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


The second pitch of this climb is easily the best pitch of this grade at Arch. Apparently there is also a loose pitch 3, but no one ever does it.

Pitch 1: This pitch is really an approach pitch and the climb would be better if you could avoid it. Start on the dirty face with a long right facing corner and another left facing one on either side of you. Climb the face to a tree (5.8) and then traverse left into an obvious fist crack. Belay at the base of the main corner (5.9).

Pitch 2. Climb the thin hands in the corner, and start stemming as the crack narrows down. It helps to have tiny fingers (11a). Move right (10+) and up to hole under a roof with thin hands in the back. It is possible to get a hands free rest by leaning the back of your head on the rock in the hole. Move up on thin flaring hands and a good undercling jug and then right into the final corner. A huge reach gains you a finger lock (11b). The pitch remains sustained.


This is the leftmost right facing corner at the arch. It is about 100 or so yards to the left of midterm. Rappel the route, or do a dirty pitch to the top and descend.


Double up to 3'' + some small nuts. Cam number 4 is useful at the belay.


Great pitch for sure but to say it is easily the best??
Maybe say in your opinion. I like Leanie Meanie better. Both great pitches though. Feb 15, 2012
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
there already two of us who likes Leanie Meanie better Sep 6, 2012
I've done the third pitch! Yup, it's loose and in the mid-5.10 range. Nov 15, 2013
I love Leanie Meanie as well. Enough to lead it some thirty times or so. But Anticipation has such varied moves, and challenges many different techniques. I only climbed it maybe three or four times but always did the last pitch for the walk off. I honestly don't remember much about it. Dec 6, 2014

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