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Routes in 4 - Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chuck Pratt & Tom Frost, August 1964
Page Views: 6,944 total, 52/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The first time I was on this climb was mid June in 100F heat. Perhaps not the best conditions, because I only got hotter as I got higher.

The climb starts with the technical crux, a polished finger crack. Thankfully this is short and leads to a very good ledge and rest. If you ever want to hear sticky rubber squeak, this is your climb!

What follows is a great hand jamming sequence, up to the midway point of the climb. The crack slowly widens to wide hands, then to off width and finally to a polished chimney.

When you reach the anchors, take deep breaths and marvel at this classic climb, and wonder why size 8 friends never caught on.

Location

Located in the middle of the Arch Rock cliff

Protection

1 set nuts, 2 sets cams. V Large cams useful for upper section

Photos

MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.10b
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.10b
As of May 14th, 2017, poison oak grows in the proximity of the anchor, but can be avoided for the most part (I think, but then again it was only yesterday that I climbed it). The wide crack is quite a brute. Climb this summ'abitch. May 15, 2017
benkraft Kraft
San Francisco, California
benkraft Kraft   San Francisco, California
Can be rapped with most 70m ropes w/ stretch Nov 7, 2016
Midterm was one of my first leads in the Valley in 1978. #11 Hex? It went in everywhere in those days. Sep 7, 2016
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
Mandatory first Yosemite climb for self-styled Gym-climbing Plastic Heroes. Aug 25, 2016
I think this was my first 5.10 lead in April 1974, in a borrowed pair of PAs, which were great in the crack and chimney above the ledge, but not so good in the slick finger section at the bottom. I had to chalk my right shoulder to get a little more traction in that lower section. The biggest thing we carried in those days was either an 11 Hexcentric, or a bong that we placed without a hammer. Sep 7, 2014
Patrick O'Neil
Santa Clara, CA
 
Patrick O'Neil   Santa Clara, CA
 
I found this to be, shall I say, not casual for .10b Feb 25, 2014
busik  
c4 #5 was useful for first few meters of the squeeze.
probably number 4 would work, but i left it on transition from fist to ow.
finger-crack start is super polished.

and yes, old #4 is still there Jan 21, 2014
One of my favorite pitches. Jan 20, 2012
Possibly the best rock in the world. Jul 20, 2011
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
Old #4 is still stuck. Most of the Poison oak is gone from the anchor (bushes still there but no leaves). Great weather right now for midterm. Squeak Squeak goes the rubber! Jan 24, 2011
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
As of mid May '10, lots of bees buzzing around the fingercrack, but no nest I could find. P-oak at the anchor. Stuck old #4 camalot in back of the squeeze. May 23, 2010
chulho "charles" chang
San Francisco Bay Area, CA
 
chulho "charles" chang   San Francisco Bay Area, CA
 
Climbed April 2010- must weave your way through poison oak to get to anchors. Be careful not to touch it with gears hanging from your harness.

also noticed that at the bottom parking area, entire trail is surrounded by poison oak- we didn't notice it on the way up because leaves were small and brown, but it's definitely poison oak. Be careful. Apr 21, 2010
EldoFiend
WY
 
EldoFiend   WY
 
You could certainly place a BD 5 and 6 once you get into the chimney. The squeeze isn't particularly hard, but running out the top half of the climb on slightly slick rock is a touch exciting. Apr 12, 2010
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
 
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
 
As of March 26 2010 theres poison oak at the top of the climb, just below the anchors. This climb is excellent! Great gear! Excellent jambs and fun squeeze chimney. Lots of variety on the Midterm. Apr 1, 2010
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
As of Dec 5, '09:

-No poison oak
-Chockstone's gone
-Chimney still physical as hell
-Perfect winter climb Dec 8, 2009
The poison ivy is alive and well, Climbed last weekend and have it all over the right side of my body--be careful! Apr 7, 2009
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
 
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
 
no bees as of jan 09 Feb 15, 2009
Is there still a beehive inside of this thing? I came to do it in October of 1997 and was bouted by bees. Haven't returned, but someday I would like to if the bees are gone. Sep 30, 2008
Dennis
 
Dennis  
 
Used a C4 #4, #5, #6. The chockstone is definitely crap and rattled a bit upon inspection. I was able to walk the #6 up until about 10 ft below the chains. Echoing Skiclimber's comments, it really is an amazing journey through the sizes. Feb 22, 2008
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
Really fun climbing through a variety of techniques. Short crux at the bottom. I'm a proponent of Zach's gear recommendation: if you're comfortable on moderate chimneys, you won't need any big gear. Also, watch out for the poison oak inside the chimney. This route gets direct sun in the middle of the day, so plan accordingly and enjoy! Feb 10, 2008
I brought the #5 c4 camalot and was stoked to have it. The 10b fingures is easy compared to the physical nature of moving in the squeeze. The chockstone is crap and I would not want to find out if it could hold. You can push the 5 for a bit in the back and it fits perfect. This pitch is excellent and a great journey in tecnique through almost every size. Oct 19, 2007
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
What a line this is. I brought a #5 camalot (C4), and was glad to have it. Oct 7, 2007
You really won't use anything larger than #4 camalot, which you can use for the transition into the squeeze. The squeeze at the top is too big for #6 camalot I think, and you would be hard pressed to fall out. There is a chockstone with slings to clip in the back of the squeeze, and then maybe 20 more feet to a bolted rap on the left wall. Awesome route! Feb 24, 2007