Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Chuck Pratt & Tom Frost, August 1964
Page Views: 8,535 total · 52/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The first time I was on this climb was mid June in 100F heat. Perhaps not the best conditions, because I only got hotter as I got higher.

The climb starts with the technical crux, a polished finger crack. Thankfully this is short and leads to a very good ledge and rest. If you ever want to hear sticky rubber squeak, this is your climb!

What follows is a great hand jamming sequence, up to the midway point of the climb. The crack slowly widens to wide hands, then to off width and finally to a polished chimney.

When you reach the anchors, take deep breaths and marvel at this classic climb, and wonder why size 8 friends never caught on.

Location

Located in the middle of the Arch Rock cliff

Protection

1 set nuts, 2 sets cams. V Large cams useful for upper section

Photos