Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chuck Pratt & Tom Frost, August 1964
Page Views: 7,684 total · 52/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


The first time I was on this climb was mid June in 100F heat. Perhaps not the best conditions, because I only got hotter as I got higher.

The climb starts with the technical crux, a polished finger crack. Thankfully this is short and leads to a very good ledge and rest. If you ever want to hear sticky rubber squeak, this is your climb!

What follows is a great hand jamming sequence, up to the midway point of the climb. The crack slowly widens to wide hands, then to off width and finally to a polished chimney.

When you reach the anchors, take deep breaths and marvel at this classic climb, and wonder why size 8 friends never caught on.


Located in the middle of the Arch Rock cliff


1 set nuts, 2 sets cams. V Large cams useful for upper section


You really won't use anything larger than #4 camalot, which you can use for the transition into the squeeze. The squeeze at the top is too big for #6 camalot I think, and you would be hard pressed to fall out. There is a chockstone with slings to clip in the back of the squeeze, and then maybe 20 more feet to a bolted rap on the left wall. Awesome route! Feb 24, 2007
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
What a line this is. I brought a #5 camalot (C4), and was glad to have it. Oct 7, 2007
I brought the #5 c4 camalot and was stoked to have it. The 10b fingures is easy compared to the physical nature of moving in the squeeze. The chockstone is crap and I would not want to find out if it could hold. You can push the 5 for a bit in the back and it fits perfect. This pitch is excellent and a great journey in tecnique through almost every size. Oct 19, 2007
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
Really fun climbing through a variety of techniques. Short crux at the bottom. I'm a proponent of Zach's gear recommendation: if you're comfortable on moderate chimneys, you won't need any big gear. Also, watch out for the poison oak inside the chimney. This route gets direct sun in the middle of the day, so plan accordingly and enjoy! Feb 10, 2008
Boston, MA
Dennis   Boston, MA
Used a C4 #4, #5, #6. The chockstone is definitely crap and rattled a bit upon inspection. I was able to walk the #6 up until about 10 ft below the chains. Echoing Skiclimber's comments, it really is an amazing journey through the sizes. Feb 22, 2008
Is there still a beehive inside of this thing? I came to do it in October of 1997 and was bouted by bees. Haven't returned, but someday I would like to if the bees are gone. Sep 30, 2008
Oakland, Ca
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
no bees as of jan 09 Feb 15, 2009
The poison ivy is alive and well, Climbed last weekend and have it all over the right side of my body--be careful! Apr 7, 2009
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
As of Dec 5, '09:

-No poison oak
-Chockstone's gone
-Chimney still physical as hell
-Perfect winter climb Dec 8, 2009
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
As of March 26 2010 theres poison oak at the top of the climb, just below the anchors. This climb is excellent! Great gear! Excellent jambs and fun squeeze chimney. Lots of variety on the Midterm. Apr 1, 2010
EldoFiend   WY
You could certainly place a BD 5 and 6 once you get into the chimney. The squeeze isn't particularly hard, but running out the top half of the climb on slightly slick rock is a touch exciting. Apr 12, 2010
chulho "charles" chang
San Francisco Bay Area, CA
chulho "charles" chang   San Francisco Bay Area, CA
Climbed April 2010- must weave your way through poison oak to get to anchors. Be careful not to touch it with gears hanging from your harness.

also noticed that at the bottom parking area, entire trail is surrounded by poison oak- we didn't notice it on the way up because leaves were small and brown, but it's definitely poison oak. Be careful. Apr 21, 2010
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
As of mid May '10, lots of bees buzzing around the fingercrack, but no nest I could find. P-oak at the anchor. Stuck old #4 camalot in back of the squeeze. May 23, 2010
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
Old #4 is still stuck. Most of the Poison oak is gone from the anchor (bushes still there but no leaves). Great weather right now for midterm. Squeak Squeak goes the rubber! Jan 24, 2011
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
Possibly the best rock in the world. Jul 20, 2011
One of my favorite pitches. Jan 20, 2012
c4 #5 was useful for first few meters of the squeeze.
probably number 4 would work, but i left it on transition from fist to ow.
finger-crack start is super polished.

and yes, old #4 is still there Jan 21, 2014
Patrick O'Neil
Santa Clara, CA
Patrick O'Neil   Santa Clara, CA
I found this to be, shall I say, not casual for .10b Feb 25, 2014
I think this was my first 5.10 lead in April 1974, in a borrowed pair of PAs, which were great in the crack and chimney above the ledge, but not so good in the slick finger section at the bottom. I had to chalk my right shoulder to get a little more traction in that lower section. The biggest thing we carried in those days was either an 11 Hexcentric, or a bong that we placed without a hammer. Sep 7, 2014
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
Mandatory first Yosemite climb for self-styled Gym-climbing Plastic Heroes. Aug 25, 2016
Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA
Mack Johnson   Silverdale, WA
Midterm was one of my first leads in the Valley in 1978. #11 Hex? It went in everywhere in those days. Sep 7, 2016
Ben Kraft
San Francisco, CA
Ben Kraft   San Francisco, CA
Can be rapped with most 70m ropes w/ stretch Nov 7, 2016
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
As of May 14th, 2017, poison oak grows in the proximity of the anchor, but can be avoided for the most part (I think, but then again it was only yesterday that I climbed it). The wide crack is quite a brute. Climb this summ'abitch. May 15, 2017
Jacob Straszynski
San Francisco
Jacob Straszynski   San Francisco
Cannot be lowered from by a 70m unless you want to be hanging 10 feet off the ground, while your roped-in belayer starts ascending the route.

Lots of random rockfall at the crag - a few ping pong ball sized rocks whizzed by. There was a large charred chunk of wood caught in the hand/fist section but did not appear to impede progress. The recent fire has adversely affected conditions here.

I chortled at the prospect of finishing with “soft for the grade” after it took me 2 hours to “lead”, including a resupply at the bottom for another number 6, more water, and knee pads.

With fingers, polished stemming and shoulder scumming, widening hands to fists, a baffling offwidth to chimney entrance move, a journey from squeeze to “ample” chimneys, this is a doctoral thesis in 10b, not a midterm. Sep 24, 2018
Isaiah Foulks
Isaiah Foulks   Monterey
Offwidth/Chimney section was super fun, and mellow if you have the technique down. Yes, chockstone is no-mo, but hey, its a chimney baby! Cant fall out!

Bet warning: Relax. Be patient. Think about every move. Savor every inch. If you start to get tired, go deepee into the chimney until you can wedge your butt and relax your arms and legs.

As a fan of (easy) offwidth and chimneys, I thought this climb was RAD, and managed to reach the anchors without being tired. But alas, I had to french the finger crack! Yes I failed the Midterm, but I had fun doing it. Jan 29, 2019