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Routes in 4 - Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mark Chapman drilled the bolts and Ed Barry did the FA?
Page Views: 324 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Oct 28, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

One of the first rap-bolted lines in Yosemite. Begin by climbing up past the tree below Supplication, then move right and begin climbing up the fist-crack corner (Application). Place a high #4 Camalot and make a thin move out right onto the face to reach the first bolt. Then another thin move to the arete. Climb up the arete which is steep and a bit pumpy for a brief section. Then climb through another thin crux near the top.

Good climbing, great position.

Even though it's not that long of a pitch, you need 2 ropes to get down because the route traverses out over exposure.

Protection

A couple pieces in the 2-4" range, and some long runners to extend the gear at the start. A handful of quickdraws.

Photos

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Michael Dom  
 
Awesome route! The four definitely makes you feel better as clipping the first bolt requires some finesse. Dec 12, 2016