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Routes in 4 - Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Donini, Rab Carrington & Mark Chapman, 1972
Page Views: 3,280 total, 26/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 11, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

I've never done the 2nd pitch...But the 1st is brilliant!

Solo up the bushy, easy pedestal and continue or belay (yellow/extra red Alien sizes)...

(at the start) It may look short but it's hard and it does get bigger... Crux red Alien-size jams and layaway/stems come right off the ledge. After punching it to a stem-stance the crack keeps growing in width. At midway, you get some fun and steep hand jams around blocks to a weird wide section in a corner. A couple grunt moves later and you'll be rounding the top to the funky anchor on the right wall.

Rap off to the ground is about 125'...Or check out the upper part if you're curious.

Location

Hidden in a big right (east) facing corner

Protection

Doubles from red Alien size to C4 #4 Camalot (red Alien is the money size)

Photos

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Levo R
Sunnyvale, CA
Levo R   Sunnyvale, CA
I'll admit the start totally crushed me, so pulled on gear through the start. But... 0.5 BD/ Red Alien is the money size as many have said. if you're short on those, then a 0.4 Grey BD or Grey Alien works in some spots. When I go back I'd have 3-4 Red Alien size almost nothing smaller, cause after that it goes to #1, #2, then the OW. For up high, I did 2x #4 BD and 1 #5 BD and felt totally cozy (yes, I know I climb with tons of gear). We used an 80m, but I imagine a 70m could get quite close to the ground with a small down climb. Oct 16, 2017
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.11b
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.11b
I didn't feel that the lower .11b crux was really anything too crazy; just steep, kinda shitty holds for the lieback, but once you get going it's easy to maintain momentum. The true battle to me came at the OW up high, and was very happy to have a #5 with me. Great route, just get out and do it! DO IT!! May 15, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
One of the coolest climbs, at least til you hit the off width. Dec 12, 2016
mpech  
one of the best climbs at arch rock-- unrelenting and physical

an uncut 70M rope just very barely can get you off of this climb--be very careful!

to me, 2x #3, 1x #4 and 1x #5 worked well for the offwidth part Nov 10, 2014
Sirius
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
...rounding the top to the funky anchor on the right wall.

Anchor looked to be new and bomber, maybe upgraded? In any case, no longer funky.

Hard pulls through the crux on this one. Jan 28, 2014
I wouldn't bring a 3.5 and a 4, just the 4 is fine. I have also done it with a 5 which is better but a 4 works. And no you can not walk a #3 in the OW. But you can after the OW in the big hands to fist section. Dec 12, 2012
Christina Freschl
Berkeley, California
 
Christina Freschl   Berkeley, California
 
Not really a layback for me. I tried a couple of times off the ledge to get a layback, but the edge was too rounded and the angle was weird (also I am not a strong laybacker). Once I went to almost straight in thin hands/finger jams and stemming off the right mini feet, I was able to climb the route. Steep hands section is soooo fun. Off-width section is good and you can walk a #3 for a ways. Mar 2, 2012
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The crux is having the strength and confidence to hang off your finger stacks long enough to get some gear in. Ended up aiding it on lead, but it didn't feel too bad on TR. I love the upper section. It's funny how the steepest part of the route is also the easiest. And the OW at the end gives it that "full value" feeling that you get with most Arch Rock climbs. Jan 30, 2011
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
The OW section is longer than it looks from below. Recommend #3.5 and #4 for this part. Aug 1, 2007