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Routes in 4 - Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Mark Klemens, Jim Bridwell 5/70 FFA: Barry Bates, Steve Wunsch 1972
Page Views: 9,265 total, 73/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 11, 2007 with updates
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is where it all began for the magical Valley grade of 5.11...Only makes sense why John Bachar made the first solo statement on this stellar line.

I usually do the route in 3 pitches (linking the traditional 2nd and 3rd pitches together).

P1. Behind the tree and up the crack! Blue Camalot size jamming over a cornery bulge is that crux. Belay on the obvious ledge below a big block (5.10-).

P2. Surmount the block and jam up a 5.7 corner and up toward the dark flared chimney (wet in early season). Place hand to fist size pieces in the crack in back using long slings and chimney upward passing some face holds. If you went right side in, then you'll have to do a tricky turn to the right and play off the double cracks as you squeeze up at the same time. The corner opens up above into a sort of alcove (where you could set a hanging belay out right)...At the top/left of the alcove and just right of the arete/prow is this flake type thing which you must jam a 5.10- move over using a not so secure hold. Once over that it's easy body flare to a big pod. Belay under the sweet looking clamshell corner crack.
(5.10)

P3. Its obvious what to do from here...Jam, stem and layaway the quickly narrowing crack which is good to the last drop. Increasingly thinning finger to tips locks in the slightly leaning corner make you strive for good body positioning to glide through the last move. (5.11-)

Rap off Gripper with 2 50M ropes or "Rappel with one 70m rope. Two 33m rappels gets you to the ground.

Location

East facing corner system.

Protection

Nuts, green Alien to C4#4 Camalot sizes, runners, 60M rope.

Photos

Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
 
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
 
No #4 Camalot or larger needed. #3 Camalots are sufficient.

It is worth noting that the Supertopo p3 (final section of p2 in this MP description) is a flare that is climbed much like an offwidth, so be prepared for that. There are hand jams in the back of the flare however.

I thought the crux was about 3/4 of the way through the last pitch where the crack size becomes rattly fingers. By that point the right wall of the flare has narrowed, forcing you to paw for feet on the face out right, the pump has set in, and the those off-finger jams are strenuous.

Rap off with a 70m rope from top of last pitch anchor which is fixed static rope slung around a block (rap rings and quick links are present). Rap climber's right to a two bolt anchor below an obvious splitter hand crack (Klemen's Escape, 5.9), then to ground. Sep 26, 2017
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
The first pitch is definitely NOT .11a. Maybe stout .10b May 15, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
Wait a few days for this one to dry out. Also, watch out for poison oak. The climbing is very physical. Dec 12, 2016
Mei
 
Mei  
 
Looks like there are different descent options offered. I'm copying and pasting Dan McDevitt's comment here: "i set up the route so it can be rappeled in two 33m raps. from top rap down to an anchor slightly east [climber's right] on klemens escape, then 33m to ground. please use these rappels so not to disturb the falcons (by walking off the top)." The rappel goes fast and it's apparently preferred by the birds too. Mar 4, 2016
Gina E
 
Gina E  
 
Check out this post for a write up on this climb (and pictures):
New Dimensions Mar 4, 2016
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
 
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
 
The best way to do this is in 2 pitches with a 70. P1 links the traditional first 3 pitches and P2 takes you to the top and through the crux. Hike to the top (4th) then down a gulley to the right (4th /5th) and rap off of a slung tree to the intermediate anchors. Feb 24, 2014
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Can rap from the top with one 70m rope. This will take you to a bolted rap station to the right of the alcove. Then one more rap to the ground. Not sure if a 60m rope will be long enough. Oct 30, 2013
Alan Doak
boulder, co
 
Alan Doak   boulder, co
 
This climb gets afternoon shade, and was quite pleasant in early June even with hot Valley temps. Jul 1, 2013
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11a
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11a
The first pitch is 11a. Apr 1, 2013
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
I found very similar foot work and body position for last pitch of ND and crux pitch ofTwilight Zone, - no kidding.. Jan 24, 2013
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Great line that surpasses the hype.

Last pitch is a mean bastard - I tried jamming it straight on while scumming my left shoulder on the book and hunting for feet out right. This worked not at all for me and I dogged the pitch.

In some ways what you get on New Dimensions is the opposite of the type of climbing you find on, say, Serenity-Sons. While S-S features splitters with clean movement on open faces, New D for me was all about thuggy jamming with physical body positioning in corners, flares, and offset cracks. Lots of strenuous body work. Loved every move on the thing. Jan 22, 2013
Might be my favorite short crack climb. Must have done this climb 50 times at least, probably twenty times with Bachar, mainly as a training route - up and down the last pitch endlessly. Jul 20, 2011
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
The trick with the last pitch is that you can get really good knee-bar/chimey rests through-out the thin hand section. My partner even found a no hands. Great pitch! Feb 14, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
The thin hands part tuckered me out pretty good. I'm still picking scabs on my knuckles. My partner and I did this route on December 29th, 2009, after a snowstorm, and we encountered quite a bit of water on the route, especially in the wide sections.

Our mistake... Dec 31, 2009
Joe Dawson  
 
The thin hands at the bottom of the last pitch felt rather hard to me until I did a combo of using the hand crack and some chimney action in the flaring corner. Jun 13, 2009
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
 
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
 
I'm with you. The bottom felt stout. I kept waiting for sting at the end, but the top felt really doable in comparison. Nov 9, 2008
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Am I the only one who thinks the crux of this thing is actually the thin hands near the beginning of the last pitch? Oct 11, 2008