Avg: 3.8 from 113 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Mark Klemens, Jim Bridwell 5/70 FFA: Barry Bates, Steve Wunsch 1972|
|Page Views:||13,583 total · 79/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Shainman on Jul 11, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
I usually do the route in 3 pitches (linking the traditional 2nd and 3rd pitches together).
P1. Behind the tree and up the crack! Blue Camalot size jamming over a cornery bulge is that crux. Belay on the obvious ledge below a big block (5.10-).
P2. Surmount the block and jam up a 5.7 corner and up toward the dark flared chimney (wet in early season). Place hand to fist size pieces in the crack in back using long slings and chimney upward passing some face holds. If you went right side in, then you'll have to do a tricky turn to the right and play off the double cracks as you squeeze up at the same time. The corner opens up above into a sort of alcove (where you could set a hanging belay out right)...At the top/left of the alcove and just right of the arete/prow is this flake type thing which you must jam a 5.10- move over using a not so secure hold. Once over that it's easy body flare to a big pod. Belay under the sweet looking clamshell corner crack.
P3. Its obvious what to do from here...Jam, stem and layaway the quickly narrowing crack which is good to the last drop. Increasingly thinning finger to tips locks in the slightly leaning corner make you strive for good body positioning to glide through the last move. (5.11-)
Rappel climbers right down Klemens Escape with a 70m rope. Two 33m rappels gets you to the ground. Or you can rap off Gripper with 2 50M ropes.