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Routes in 4 - Arch Rock

Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cosmic Messenger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klemens Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mad Dogs Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torque Converter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: FA: Unknown FFA: James Lombard III, Blair Dixson, Sean Jones, 1998
Page Views: 1,246 total · 13/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Mar 6, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a short but powerful finger tip lieback crack. Most of the moves are 5.11a with a short .12a section up high. All falls are clean and on good pro. The chains at the top are difficult to reach unless you climb high and clip them from the side. Great for running laps. Part of the strong fingers training circuit.

Location

In the trees between Blotto and English Breakfast Crack.

Protection

Small gear only. Just look up at the crack and you can see the size.

Photos

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Michael Dom  
 
I had to aid this guy to hit the chains. After that I topped it a few times and came to the conclusion that this is something to be practiced. It is a really fun climb. Dec 12, 2016
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
This route was "established" earlier, as a top rope after finishing English breakfast Crack. People have been TRing it for 30 years. Jan 24, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Not one to try when you are already pumped. Definately would be easier if you have the route wired beacuse there is no time to figure it out while climbing before getting pumped. May 22, 2010
Kirk L
Fort Collins, CO
Kirk L   Fort Collins, CO
What climbs might be considered part of the strong fingers training circuit? May 9, 2010
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
This climb is relatively new to the area and I'm surprised it wasn't established earlier. The gold granite is beautiful and great quality. A great workout! See how many laps you can run before you fall, head down to Short Circuit and do the same, then grab a beer or six. Mar 6, 2010

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