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Routes in San Ysidro

Applied Magnetics T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chavez/Mosher T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Daddy's Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enigmatic Voyage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face Lift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Race S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Haunted by Waters S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heckling, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Many Happy Returns T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peels of Laughter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Puny Prow T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Return On Investment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rick's Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Rockocco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scrub Job T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Too Mucking Futch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Vanishing Flakes T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weeny Roofs, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young William T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: Mack Johnson & Bruce Hendricks (1983)
Page Views: 596 total, 6/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 19, 2009 with updates
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The arete and face to the left of Vanishing Flakes. A suitable alternative when San Ysidro is crowded.

Start by the Oak tree on the left-side of the arete. Climb up the left side and angle right, joining the right-side of the arete about 10 feet up. It is possible to place a Tri-Cam in a pocket before setting off on the runout face above. There is a hangerless Rawl about 15 feet higher. Continue on the runout face to the top, avoiding the crack that forms the top of Rockoco & Vanishing Flakes (although it is possible and quite appealing to step right and place gear).

First Ascentionists Note:
I did the FA of Puny Prow in 1980 when I was in graduate school at UCSB. I drilled the bolt from a free stance. I think it was a 3/8" Star Drive and the sleeve deformed; the original metal was a lame installation! I don't remember it being very runout.
- Mack Johnson

Location

Starts in the gully, below a substantial oak tree, left of Vanishing Flakes.

Protection

Tri-cam, one hangerless bolt (clip with a rivet hanger or a wired-stopper). Belay from the small oak atop the route, or use the bolts atop Rockoco/Flakes.

Photos

Richard Shore
  5.10-
Richard Shore  
  5.10-
Other than maybe one move getting established into the huge hueco about 15' up, I never felt like there was a 5.10 move on this route. However, I did lead Vanishing Flakes immediately beforehand so all the holds seemed HUGE! I can't really justify giving this route an R rating, either. You can get a good purple #0 TCU at the start, then cinch the hangerless bolt, and maybe 10' above that a good #1 or #2 camalot in a shallow crack. The "runout" face (15' maybe?) above felt like 5.7 at most. There is also a newish bolt at the very top that provides a nice directional for your follower before traversing right to the anchors atop Rockocco/VF. May 23, 2011