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Routes in San Ysidro

Applied Magnetics T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chavez/Mosher T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Daddy's Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enigmatic Voyage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face Lift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Race S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Haunted by Waters S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heckling, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Many Happy Returns T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peels of Laughter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Puny Prow T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Return On Investment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rick's Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Rockocco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scrub Job T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Too Mucking Futch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Vanishing Flakes T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weeny Roofs, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young William T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mosher, Dixon (1979)
Page Views: 1,192 total, 8/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts about 30 feet to the right and uphill from the classic Orangahang.

Climb straight up a shallow corner past a large tuft of grass and clip a bolt. From the bolt, step straight left onto sloping holds. Continue traversing left under a small overhang (crux). At the far left end of the overhang is a thank-God-hold that makes pulling up and over the roof a straight-forward and fun endeavor.

After gaining a small ledge, traverse back right into an obvious wide crack. Climb this crack until it ends. Clip a bolt and pull over a small bulge onto sloping face holds. Follow these sloping holds and a series of large holes up and left to the large oak tree which can be tied as an anchor.

Note: after clipping the second bolt, the original line climbed up and right to finish on Fine Line. This is considerably harder (perhaps 5.9) though less run-out.

Protection

2 bolts--the crack between these two might take some small gear. The top half of the route (as usually climbed) has no protection.

In general this route is extremely run-out. Even the crux bulge, down low, is poorly protected. A fall on the first bolt could result in a sprained ankle or worse.

Photos

Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.8+ PG13
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.8+ PG13
Maybe unnecessary, but when you don't know what to expect, slinging the rock formation above the bulge above the first bolt (pockets with thin tunnel connecting them) helps ease fear. It's a bit tricky to thread; I hitched a sling to a wired nut, dropped that nut through the top, and needled another wired nut through the bottom to grab it and pull it through. There is really only 1 very-runout section on this route (above the 2nd bolt I think), other than that, there is some decent pro. Use long runners to reduce rope drag. Mar 6, 2011
Definitely echoing the sprained ankle bewareness. I felt really comfortable on Great Race around the corner, but I took a fall on the first bolt of Rick's Route and massively sprained my ankle. So watch out pulling over the bulge, especially if you're short. Mar 24, 2010
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Another variation to this route is to climb nearly straight up (and a little left) from the first bolt, forgoing the traverse left beneath a small overhang. This variation feels about 5.9+ by San Ysidro standards. Jul 5, 2006