Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mosher, Dixon (1979)
Page Views: 1,321 total · 8/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts about 30 feet to the right and uphill from the classic Orangahang.

Climb straight up a shallow corner past a large tuft of grass and clip a bolt. From the bolt, step straight left onto sloping holds. Continue traversing left under a small overhang (crux). At the far left end of the overhang is a thank-God-hold that makes pulling up and over the roof a straight-forward and fun endeavor.

After gaining a small ledge, traverse back right into an obvious wide crack. Climb this crack until it ends. Clip a bolt and pull over a small bulge onto sloping face holds. Follow these sloping holds and a series of large holes up and left to the large oak tree which can be tied as an anchor.

Note: after clipping the second bolt, the original line climbed up and right to finish on Fine Line. This is considerably harder (perhaps 5.9) though less run-out.

Protection

2 bolts--the crack between these two might take some small gear. The top half of the route (as usually climbed) has no protection.

In general this route is extremely run-out. Even the crux bulge, down low, is poorly protected. A fall on the first bolt could result in a sprained ankle or worse.

Photos