Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rick Mosher and Joe Roland, 1975
Page Views: 4,116 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jon Hanlon on Feb 19, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route begins at the obvious flake between Applied Magnetics and the descent gully. Climb the flake to a bolt (alternately, you can climb the 5.10a face left of the flake past a Leeper hanger). Easy friction leads to a second bolt. From this second bolt, the route continues straight up to a third bolt near the "Too Mucking Futch" trough. A traverse and a very long sling is required to gain the fourth bolt. I prefer to forego the third bolt in favor of keeping a more direct and aesthetic line to the fourth bolt. This makes it a little more runout, so use your judgment. From the fourth bolt, diagonal up and right to a triple bolt belay in a dish.

After the belay, head up and left to the gully (passing 2 bolts), or up and right to a hole and a second bolt, eventually passing two more bolts on the final headwall (my book calls this variation 5.9, but I believe it is 5.10a).

From the first belay one can also angle right to a large hole to climb "Scrub Job" or "Chavez/Mosher."

Protection

Marginal pro can be found on the route just before the first belay. Gear placements and a large oak tree can be found for an anchor at the top of the second pitch

Photos