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Routes in San Ysidro

Applied Magnetics T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chavez/Mosher T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Daddy's Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enigmatic Voyage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face Lift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Race S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Haunted by Waters S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heckling, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Many Happy Returns T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peels of Laughter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Puny Prow T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Return On Investment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rick's Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Rockocco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scrub Job T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Too Mucking Futch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Vanishing Flakes T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weeny Roofs, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young William T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rick Mosher and Joe Roland, 1975
Page Views: 3,822 total, 27/month
Shared By: Jon Hanlon on Feb 19, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route begins at the obvious flake between Applied Magnetics and the descent gully. Climb the flake to a bolt (alternately, you can climb the 5.10a face left of the flake past a Leeper hanger). Easy friction leads to a second bolt. From this second bolt, the route continues straight up to a third bolt near the "Too Mucking Futch" trough. A traverse and a very long sling is required to gain the fourth bolt. I prefer to forego the third bolt in favor of keeping a more direct and aesthetic line to the fourth bolt. This makes it a little more runout, so use your judgment. From the fourth bolt, diagonal up and right to a triple bolt belay in a dish.

After the belay, head up and left to the gully (passing 2 bolts), or up and right to a hole and a second bolt, eventually passing two more bolts on the final headwall (my book calls this variation 5.9, but I believe it is 5.10a).

From the first belay one can also angle right to a large hole to climb "Scrub Job" or "Chavez/Mosher."

Protection

Marginal pro can be found on the route just before the first belay. Gear placements and a large oak tree can be found for an anchor at the top of the second pitch
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
This is the first time that I have heard of Mosher & Roland being accused of sanitizing a route... Jul 28, 2012
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
 
Took a friend up this one again today, doing the direct/harder finish. What a cool route. I must say, however, that not a single bolt (in my opinion) is necessary, outside of the belay and one or two for protecting the harder finish. I skipped every bolt on the first pitch, finding acceptable gear which also kept things reasonable for my follower. Its an easy route, I think less bolts could have made it more adventurous. Jul 21, 2012
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
It's amazing...the friction is so good this time of year (while the route is in the shade all day long) that the harder version of P2 feels like 5.9 or 9+. In the heat of summer, with afternoon sun on the wall, this pitch feels more like 5.10b.

Go climb this thing before Spring arrives!! Jan 10, 2012
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
I guess it's just my alpine background (and the fact that I've never placed gear on this route and do consider it a sport climb---run out a bit, but still a sport climb). Yes, Matthew I hear what you're saying, but when the ratio of bolts is so high---and the climb is usually done without placing any pro---then I don't count it as trad. In context, it would be like saying that half the climbs on Toxic were trad because people do place some gear on occasion. (But then again, I consider Snake Dike a sport climb, too, ha!)

Just the usual climbing semantics disagreement at the end of the work day. Cheers all! Aug 18, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
When I think of a "traditional" face climb, I think of routes that use a mix of removable gear and bolts, where bolts were placed on lead and used very sparingly. These types of traditional face climbs are prevalent in the Needles, Tuolumne, and elsewhere. Face Lift is very much in the style of these other traditional climbs. Aug 17, 2009
Jon Hanlon
SLO
 
Jon Hanlon   SLO
 
You're right Jeff. When most of these routes were put up there was no such thing as trad (or sport). I think you are pointing out that this is a bolted route with limited opportunities for pro. True, but I would not consider it a sport climb. Aug 17, 2009
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
This isn't a trad route, just to clarify. Aug 17, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
The third lead bolt on Face Lift was replaced in August 2006. The new bolt is a 12mm Fixe Triplex Expansion bolt. The position of the bolt was moved approximately 4 feet to find harder rock in which to place the bolt and an easier stance from which to clip. Aug 15, 2006
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
The second lead bolt on Face Lift was replaced in April, 2006. The bolt that was pulled was a 5/16" wedge bolt (which would have held less than 2,000 lbs when brand new). The new bolt is a 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.

There are many more of these 5/16" bolts at San Ysidro. All should be treated with great caution. Apr 23, 2006
Jon Hanlon
SLO
 
Jon Hanlon   SLO
 
Not sure how skipping the 3rd bolt, thereby eliminating a traverse and pendulum for the follower makes it more "runout for the second," but ok.

The route really is not desperate, especially for the follower. Feb 25, 2006
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
When deciding which bolts to clip, be sure to consider the health and well-being of your second. The sequence of bolts that leaders use often makes this route more seriously runout for the second than the leader.

Remember, you can always clip a bolt, climb to the next bolt, back-track, and clean the previous bolt.

[I'm not specifically commenting on Jon's stratey of skipping the 3rd bolt. It's the 4th bolt that I'm thinking of. The line from the 3rd to the 4th bolt is dead horizontal. Jon's strategy likely aleviates my concern. I clip the 5th bolt, down climb and back-clean the 4th.] Feb 25, 2006