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Routes in San Ysidro

Applied Magnetics T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chavez/Mosher T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Daddy's Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enigmatic Voyage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face Lift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Race S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Haunted by Waters S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heckling, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Many Happy Returns T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peels of Laughter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Puny Prow T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Return On Investment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rick's Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Rockocco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scrub Job T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Too Mucking Futch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Vanishing Flakes T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weeny Roofs, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young William T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Mosher, Dixon
Page Views: 2,836 total, 20/month
Shared By: EricT on Feb 5, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Left of Orangahang is a lone bolt in the middle of the slab. Climb past and then head right towards the bolt and lieback. After liebacking the detached block, climb weird fingerlocks up the slab to the nice ledge. The route finishes just right of the 3rd class gully.

Protection

Like much of San Ysidro, the route is mixed, with bolts and trad placements. Down low, the route is a bit run out, but can be protected. Bolted anchors at the top.

Update: The Many Happy Returns rap-anchor was replaced in April, 2006. Two Rawl-style expansion bolts of unknown age were removed. One 1/2" Rawl-style five-piece expansion bolt and one Fixe 3/8" double-wedge expansion bolt were placed with stainless steel rappel rings.

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
as of 6/13, the arete rap anchor atop Peels is fully equipped with both rap links/rings. it was only bec this anchor atop MHR was missing a rap ring that i rapped down the arete with a 60. if i had one of my many quicklinks at home with me at the time, would've put one onto the bare bolt, to help out. thanks for doing what you could for the place over the years. it's a nice convenient spot Jun 15, 2015
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8
Someone keeps swiping the rap-hangers. There's also one missing from atop Peels. I'm done replacing them... Jun 14, 2015
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
as of 6/13/2015, this set of higher rap anchor shared by Orangahang has oddly only one rap ring on the right side bolt. no ring or chain on the bare left bolt Jun 13, 2015
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
Always went straight up to [what I know now] is the second bolt. The slab just past the first bolt is definitely 5.9. May 13, 2013
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
...and a Yosemite 5.7 Sep 14, 2009
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.8
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.8
Don't know much about local ratings but this is an east coast 5.8. Sep 14, 2009
This is a great route and probably one of my local favorites!

The crux for me is the slabby part from the first bolt to the stance to clip the second. The physical crux is probably the steep face/lieback part from the 2nd bolt to the nice ledge.

A light rack will do. A .75 and a 1 BD camalot protect the lieback well. I don't recall using any other pro, but its been a while since I've done this one. Jul 5, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8
On the upper half of the route, I stem between the crack and various holds out left. This feels a couple of grades easier than the aforementioned "weird fingerlocks." Jul 9, 2007