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Routes in San Ysidro

Applied Magnetics T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chavez/Mosher T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Daddy's Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enigmatic Voyage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face Lift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Race S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Haunted by Waters S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heckling, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Many Happy Returns T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peels of Laughter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Puny Prow T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Return On Investment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rick's Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Rockocco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scrub Job T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Too Mucking Futch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Vanishing Flakes T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weeny Roofs, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young William T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Ted Stryker, John Ford (1987)
Page Views: 1,134 total, 8/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 10, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Wonderfully subtle face climbing on marginal holds--you must have mastered this surface to hold-on. Simply "visionary."

This route climbs the face 8 feet right of the SY-classic "Vanishing Flakes." Climb past a mangled lead bolt without hanger and up to the second bolt of Flakes. Give your feet a break on a small ledge before stepping up and right on a blank face.

Finish on the upper half of Rockoco.

Mostly a top-rope or a solo.

Protection

I have not led the lower face (ie the crux) of this route. I can say from a distance that the only pro on the bottom 40 feet is 1 bolt (the second bolt of Vanishing Flakes).

Gear: 1-2 inches for the 5.5 crack above, which is shared with Rockoco & Flakes.

Two 1/2" wedge bolts with chains for a top-anchor (shared with Rockoco and Flakes).

Photos

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Sent. A little scary i deffinetely used a pad... falling clipping the first bolt (second of vanishing) was a little as in a lot scary. Thanks for the clues andy. Jul 10, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.12a R
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.12a R
The "deep" two-finger pocket can be used on Young WIlliam—this, according to Kevin Brown, who ought to have known. The cruxy moves on YW are down low, and there is a scary hand-foot match past the two-finger pocket that is also memorable. If you traverse too far left at the two-finger, it becomes Vanishing Flakes. Moral of the story? Young WIlliam is a little bit of a squeeze job, in my opinion. Still hard, however. And committing. Sep 11, 2012
Hey guys not completely sure the exact line for this route?? I.e. their is one hold (the deep two finger pocket) on the far right of vanishing flakes. would venture to say that is not part of young william, but just wanted to get a description from someone from the area who knows. Thanks Sep 9, 2012
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
To say "chopped" is being a bit generous. The person beat the snot out of it.

I have heard through the grape vine that the individual who did this was put-off by the presence of a new lead bolt on an old route. That individual's answer to the offense was to do further damage to the route--the same thing that happened atop Fine Line around this saMe time. When the first leAd bolt on Applied Magnetics was removed aRound this same time, it got a proper (and rather artful) patch job...thanKfully. Jul 12, 2008
Nathan Welton
Estes Park, CO
  5.12a R
Nathan Welton   Estes Park, CO
  5.12a R
who chopped that 'mangled lead bolt?'

too bad. it's a bit of an ankle breaker. don't fall! Jul 5, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.12a R
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.12a R
Leading Young William is an exercise in mental/calf-muscle focus. Luckily, the higher you go, the easier it gets (sort of). I'd recommend a crashpad (or two, or three) for the start. Think of this route as a 20 foot V4 or V5 boulder problem to a bolt. The late, great Kevin Brown, upon hearing of my recent ascent of this route said "so why haven't you soloed Vanishing Flakes yet?"

Considering the height of your first clip, he does have a point. Needless to say, approach this route carefully, and climb it the same way. In my opinion, Young William is a FAR superior line to Vanishing Flakes, and not simply because it is harder. Jun 27, 2008