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Routes in San Ysidro

Applied Magnetics T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chavez/Mosher T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Daddy's Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enigmatic Voyage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face Lift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Race S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Haunted by Waters S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heckling, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Many Happy Returns T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peels of Laughter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Puny Prow T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Return On Investment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rick's Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Rockocco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scrub Job T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Too Mucking Futch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Vanishing Flakes T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weeny Roofs, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young William T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Terry Roland and Steve Tucker, 1990
Page Views: 719 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jon Hanlon on Feb 19, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route begins in the descent gully, approximately even with top of the first pitch of Face Lift. A better option is to climb the first pitch of Face Lift. From the Face Lift belay angle up and right to the large hole (this is about 20 feet with no pro). The business begins above the hole. Clip a bolt and friction up an insecure trough, climbing significantly above the bolt. This section is very solid 5.9 (read at least 5.9). Eventually easier climbing leads to a headwall and the top of the alternative second pitch of Face Lift.

Protection

3 bolts only, but not a sport climb. I hesitate to give it an R, maybe NC17.

Photos

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andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
This is runout. No question in my mind. Jun 16, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
This route utilizes the bolt above the left-hand side of the large hole. The bolt above the right-hand side of the hole is Chavez/Mosher.

I believe that Scrub Job has 4 bolts. Aug 19, 2009