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Routes in San Ysidro

Applied Magnetics T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chavez/Mosher T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Daddy's Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enigmatic Voyage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face Lift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Race S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Haunted by Waters S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heckling, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Many Happy Returns T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peels of Laughter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Puny Prow T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Return On Investment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rick's Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Rockocco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scrub Job T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Too Mucking Futch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Vanishing Flakes T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Weeny Roofs, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young William T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: John Chavez & Rick Mosher (late 70s)
Page Views: 103 total · 1/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 19, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Same start as Scrub Job. Climb up to a large hole, and clip the bolt above the right-hand side of the hole. Exit the hole on the right and follow a shallow trough that angles slightly right as it ascends the wall.

It is possible to use the trough for hand holds, doing a psuedo-lieback to the right. There are just enough edges among the lichen to the right of the trough for your feet.

The difficulties continue well above the bolt. A fall near the top of the trough would deposit you very painfully in the gully. As the trough ends, follow good edges straight up to a bolt. Then traverse horizontally to the right to a third bolt. Climb straight to the top from here.

Location

Starts from the Oak Tree that grows out of a crack in the descent gully (level with the top of the first pitch of Face Lift)

Protection

3 bolts, very runout to the second bolt.

Belay from a large oak tree set back 10 feet from the top of the route.

Photos

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Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
I made the very unfortunate mistake of climbing this route while thinking that I was climbing Scrub Job. The runout above the first bolt is very, very scary.

To my surprise, the route did not feel as hard to me as the "5.10b/c" claimed in the Edwards Guidebook. I thought perhaps 5.10a...or old-school 5.9+. Aug 19, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Call it R or PG-13, it's still groundfall. Apr 9, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
This route deserves an "R" rating, no question about it. When you climb twenty feet past a bolt on insecure terrain, and a ledge awaits you below, I believe the word is RUNOUT. I wouldn't call it an absolute horror-show, but this route definitely vaunts the bold, traditional ethic of San Ysidro. Consider this a 5.10 for solid 5.11 leaders. Apr 11, 2010

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