San Ysidro Rock Climbing
|GPS:||34.454, -119.623 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||EricT on Feb 5, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
There is a gully roughly in the middle of the wall which affords a 3rd class approach to the tops of the crags.
The following routes are listed left to right: (bold print indicates "classic"):
Left of Main Wall
1. Daddy's Girl (5.11a).
2. Two Fine Sons (5.10a).
3. Speed Zoo (5.6).
4. Return On Investment.
5. Haunted by Waters.
6. Brown Nose Frog (5.8).
7. Puny Prow (5.10). Single bolt.
8. The Big Sleep (5.11b/c).
9. Vanishing Flakes (5.11a) - CLASSIC. Difficulty seems to depend on the humidity and temperature; if you can get up to the drilled angle, life will be sweet. #4 Friend useful to protect the top.
10. Young William (5.12a R). Thin and runout testpiece with high ground fall potential.
11. Enigmatic Voyage (5.11b).
12. Rockocco (5.5). Take a couple of larger Friends.
13. Applied Magnetics (5.9) **. Climb a bit of history. Cool start to the route. Wired nuts keep it from getting run out.
14. Too Mucking Futch (5.8). Climb the crack. Pro: wires and small cams.
15. Face Lift (5.7) - CLASSIC. VERY popular. Be sure to take two long runners to reduce the rope drag on the first pitch. There are three variations to the second pitch.
16. Tigger Treat (5.8). From the belay of Face Lift, go up and split to the right (5.9).
17. Scrub Job (5.9). Traverse right from the belay of Face Lift.
18. Chavez/Mosher (5.10 R). Traverse farther right from the belay of Face Lift. It's thin for a long ways after the bolt.
19. Great Race (5.10a) - CLASSIC. "The best 5.10a in Santa Barbara" says Reese Martin. Don't chicken out: move left at the fifth bolt to get to the upper face. The direct start is 5.10b.
20. Peels of Laughter (5.5 R) **. Easy arete, but only two bolts on the entire pitch.
21. Many Happy Returns (5.9) - CLASSIC. Fun climb, seems easier; take a #2 Friend & some medium size wired nuts.
22. Amish in Space (5.10a R). From the ledge on the second bolt on Many Happy Returns, head left a bit then straight up through steep rock. A real trouser-filling lead.
23. Orangahang (5.7) - CLASSIC. Corner to a bulge.
24. Rick's Route (5.7) **. Thin face.
25. Fine Line (5.9) **. Thinner face climbing. Three bolts.
26. Ricky Don't Lose That Number (5.9 R). Don't worry about gear, there isn't any. On-sight, free solo first ascent.
27. The Weeny Roofs (5.10b R). Crux is setting up the roof moves. Four bolts.
28. The Heckling (5.10 R).
29. Teacher's Aid (5.8).
Once you reach the turnoff for Lower San Ysidro, hike past the turnoff till you reach a fork where the fire road crosses the stream and a trail bears right. Take the right fork. Hike about a 3/4 mile up some switchbacks and past some pipe-railings. About 200 meters past the pipe-railings, look left for a large slab sloping down towards the creek. You can't miss it. However, getting TO the crag is tricky. I suggest hiking till you are directly parallel to the crag, then hike straight down the steep slope. There's lots of Poison oak so be warned...
Classic Climbing Routes at San Ysidro
Days w Precip