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Routes in San Ysidro

Applied Magnetics T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chavez/Mosher T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Daddy's Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enigmatic Voyage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face Lift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Race S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Haunted by Waters S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heckling, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Many Happy Returns T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peels of Laughter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Puny Prow T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Return On Investment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rick's Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Rockocco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scrub Job T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Too Mucking Futch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Vanishing Flakes T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weeny Roofs, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young William T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad
FA: Dixon, Mosher, Forkash (1979)
Page Views: 1,053 total, 8/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 16, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Solo 30 feet of 5.5/5.6 face climbing to reach the first bolt. Clip a second bolt and climb past an obvious roof with long, powerful moves off of positive crimps. Bolts adequately protect the leader through these awkward and sandy roof moves.

Traverse left on a ledge. Pull a few steep, strenuous moves on the right side of the arete before pulling left onto the face. This section is the crux of the route. If you fall at the crux, the route's third bolt will not keep you off of the ledge below. Clip one last bolt which adequately protects slabby moves leading to a huge ledge.

Unprotected 5.4 face climbing leads to the summit--although it is possible to escape right by walking along the ledge.

In between the various bolts, expect little in the way of protection. This is not a sport route.

This is the hardest 5.10 at the cliff (much harder than either Great Race or the 5.10a alternates of Face Lift).

Location

The right-most developed line at San Ysidro. Hike up the gully along the base of the cliff from Fine Line to access the start. Look for the unmistakable roof that forms the lower part of the route.

Protection

4 lead bolts. Gear (tiny to 1.5") and a single bolt comprise the top anchor.

Photos

Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
Do a V2. walk around on a ledge for however long you want. Do a V3 that would hurt to fall on. Go to the anchors. or trees. Wonder why you didn't just get a pad and go bouldering. Sep 25, 2013
Richard Shore
  5.10 R
Richard Shore  
  5.10 R
Fun route with bouldery moves over the roofs. Don't get sandbagged thinking this is 5.9! A fall at the crux isnt advised. Place directionals for your follower after BOTH roof sections Feb 6, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Discontinuous climbing on passable rock. It won't change your world, but hey, it's rock climbing, so go have fun. Nov 24, 2010
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.9+ PG13
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.9+ PG13
Climbed this today, was a little dirty but overall pretty fun. Basically two boulder problems separated by easy climbing. I found it pretty well protected, there is a small cam placement before the first bolt and after that I thought the bolts protected the cruxes sufficiently. Apr 9, 2010
Adam D
Los Osos, CA
Adam D   Los Osos, CA
agreed. just not that pleasant climbing either. skip it. Dec 20, 2007
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
This route is poorly protected for the leader when pulling the crux. Also, it is very difficult to top-rope this route unless you place a #1 TCU (or corresponding nut) above the first roof so that the climber has directional support while pulling through this awkward, strenuous section--without the extra pro, a fall at the roof would result in a 15-foot, rope-shredding pendulum.

The crux moves above the 3rd bolt are difficult--absolutely dumbfounding considering the original grade of 5.9. Either something has broken off, or this is the biggest sandbag in Santa Barbara. Jul 31, 2007