Type: Trad
FA: Dixon, Mosher, Forkash (1979)
Page Views: 1,142 total · 7/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 16, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Solo 30 feet of 5.5/5.6 face climbing to reach the first bolt. Clip a second bolt and climb past an obvious roof with long, powerful moves off of positive crimps. Bolts adequately protect the leader through these awkward and sandy roof moves.

Traverse left on a ledge. Pull a few steep, strenuous moves on the right side of the arete before pulling left onto the face. This section is the crux of the route. If you fall at the crux, the route's third bolt will not keep you off of the ledge below. Clip one last bolt which adequately protects slabby moves leading to a huge ledge.

Unprotected 5.4 face climbing leads to the summit--although it is possible to escape right by walking along the ledge.

In between the various bolts, expect little in the way of protection. This is not a sport route.

This is the hardest 5.10 at the cliff (much harder than either Great Race or the 5.10a alternates of Face Lift).

Location

The right-most developed line at San Ysidro. Hike up the gully along the base of the cliff from Fine Line to access the start. Look for the unmistakable roof that forms the lower part of the route.

Protection

4 lead bolts. Gear (tiny to 1.5") and a single bolt comprise the top anchor.

Photos