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Routes in San Ysidro

Applied Magnetics T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chavez/Mosher T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Daddy's Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enigmatic Voyage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face Lift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Race S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Haunted by Waters S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heckling, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Many Happy Returns T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peels of Laughter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Puny Prow T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Return On Investment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rick's Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Rockocco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scrub Job T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Too Mucking Futch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Vanishing Flakes T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Weeny Roofs, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young William T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Unknown, Equipped: Matthew Fienup & Sean Collins
Page Views: 1,365 total · 10/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Interesting climbing, good rock, ideal location--all in all a fun diversion on busy weekends.

There is one hard, height-dependent move past the overhang. The grade only applies if you can reach the decisive handhold.

Location

Located just downstream from the main wall. Look for an obvious pipe that sticks up from a ledge at mid-height. The climbing starts from a flat boulder above a small swimming hole.

(Interestingly, the first recent ascent was done without the benefit of bolts. From a stance below the overhang, the climbing rope was tossed up and over the pipe. In this way, a top rope was created for protecting the crux move. Purists should feel free to climb the route in this style ;)

Protection

Gear: tiny to 3/4" plus 2 bolts. Bolted top anchor with rappel rings.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
No record of any prior ascent was indicated in the guidebook, although this route was surely climbed back in the day. An aging sling was found around the pipe at mid-height and around a tree at the top of the wall. If anyone has any information, please share it here.

A direct start can be top-roped at about slabby-5.9. Jul 9, 2007
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.8-
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.8-
A pink tricam and a number 7 stopper (and sling the pipe) pretty much sew this up. Traverse the lichen field and finish at the Waters anchor to milk a few extra feet. Can't really see this being more than one 5.8- move (regardless of height), though. Mar 30, 2009
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
I was asked if this was Speed Zoo, an unknown FA listed in my guide. I have no idea. Speed Zoo may have used the pipe for pro but it's pretty much impossible to say where the line actually went. It's not exactly historical significance so let's leave this as its own route unless someone speaks up. Jan 22, 2010

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