Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Fitch (1975)
Page Views: 1,823 total · 12/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 15, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Easy but unprotected climbing up the corner leads to a shallow horizontal ledge (5.4). Alternately, climb the face six feet right of the corner (5.6/5.7). Foot traverse right along the ledge until reaching a crack. Gratefully place a piece or two as you climb the crack up to an obvious overhang. Foot traverse left to the corner. Bypass the roof on the left-hand side. Climb the airy and exposed arete past two bolts to the top.

The true crux of the route is passing the second bolt (at 80 feet) which involves a committing and somewhat awkward mantel (5.7). Many people risk a significant swing and bypass the crux by traversing 6 feet right on the ledge and climbing face holds to the top (5.6).

The route is 110 feet long!! Do not try to rappel the route with a 60m rope. The only way to run a redirected toprope is to extend your anchor 10 feet below the two bolts out on the arete. NOTE: multiple directionals must be used when toproping in order to avoid a swing of up to 30 feet!

Location

This route starts on the obvious, easy corner to the left of the start of Many Happy Returns.

Protection

2 bolts. Optional 1/2"-1" gear. Very runout.

The top of the route is protected by a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Great Race) which can and should be backed up with a bolt higher up.
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
R/X as a lead. Highly recommended as a toprope. Jan 3, 2007
“The Fixe Glue-in atop this route now wiggles. There are also clearly visible chips where a runaway hammer made contact with the rock..."

Judging from the damage surrounding some of the other convenience anchors that have sprouted up at San Ysidro, I would assume this was a poorly executed removal attempt. Since the rock is so fragile, and the would-be remover so heavy handed, I am squarely against such removal tactics. Sounds though, that folks may be offended by the hijacking of historic lines at this crag. Oct 29, 2007
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
route looks about 97 ft tall, as measured from the lowest bottom flat ground directly below a shiny low bolt. TR from arete anchor (shared with Great Race) seems straight enough without directionals. photo shows the few feet of extra slack after rapping down. a 60 works fine
Jun 13, 2015
One of the two hangers at the anchor is missing. The other hanger has a rusty ring on it. May 9, 2017