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Routes in San Ysidro

Applied Magnetics T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chavez/Mosher T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Daddy's Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enigmatic Voyage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face Lift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Race S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Haunted by Waters S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heckling, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Many Happy Returns T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peels of Laughter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Puny Prow T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Return On Investment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rick's Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Rockocco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scrub Job T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Too Mucking Futch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Vanishing Flakes T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weeny Roofs, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young William T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Dixon, Mosher
Page Views: 4,250 total, 30/month
Shared By: EricT on Feb 5, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Great Race is on the right wall of the 3rd class gully and is a great sporty vertical line. Steep, slabby (is that an oxymoron?) moves down low give way to buckets higher up.

Protection

Good bolts to a bolted anchor. Descend via rapping or going down the gully. For toproping, it is preferable to use the bolts at the top of the arete, not the pair at the back of the ledge (to prevent swinging into the trees).

Update: The two-bolt anchor out on the arete was replaced in 2007 and consists of two 1/2" x 4" wedge-bolts with rings.

Photos

Just a heads up that I climbed this yesterday to find only one bolt left on the bolted anchor at the top of the arete. The bolt that is left looks very solid and there are plenty of other bolts up there but just thought I should mention it. Jul 28, 2017
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.10a
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.10a
Way I went: Start directly below the bolt, clip, foot traverse left (10a / b?), up, then right to clip second bolt then .9+/10a move right. Mar 4, 2012
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
How do most people get above the first bolt, start directly below the bolt and 'traverse left, up, then back right', or 'go straight up' (looks really hard), or 'start on the left go up then right' (much easier)? Even with the easy start, it still felt 10a. Feb 12, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Continues to be one of my favorite all-time routes in SB. Nov 24, 2010
Brian Paden
Goleta CA
Brian Paden   Goleta CA
Unusually well bolted sport route in a trad area. Excellent quality rock! Sep 24, 2010
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Falling between the first and second bolts is not advised. This section has been the sight of a few sprained ankles. May 20, 2009
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.10a
This route was pretty fun. The first clip is in a good spot - for a climb that does not start on top of a ledge. If you feel uncomfortable throw a cam in at your feet so you do not slide off the ledge should you miss the first clip. If your belayer is up there with you, a tree anchor may suffice to make you both feel safe. Oct 16, 2006