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Routes in Rappel Rock

Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charadras T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Rich Thompson, Gary Axen, Kem Johnson '74
Page Views: 2,158 total, 21/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 19, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

20' Left of the obvious 3'-4' left arching corner (Rotissima Bueno) is a 20' ramp leading to a 20' crack/flake system. The route climbs this crack/flake then a series of ribs then connects into the Rotissima corner at about 65'. Continue up the corner then through some steep moves to stand atop a horn and a spicy move for short folks to a good hold. (although you can step left according to the guide book authors Steiger, EFR et al). Continue up to a ledge system 7' below a bush (belay to down to the right on ledge). A really good 5.7 adventure with traditional Mt Lemmon pro. See the pro section.

There are no permanent anchors on the ledge and it requires 2 ropes to touch the ground. An easier escape is to trend left up a 5.5 crack to the giant "Orange Slice" corner then go left to easy ground and off. I would recommend the "Not So Easy Arch" finish as a better quality exit.

Location

60' left of Black Quacker, just left of Rotissima Bueno at Rap rock's base

Protection

Stoppers, 9/16" shoulder slings, TCU's to 1.5", and camming units to 3". Save a #5 "wc rock" for the moves getting to the corner up high. The gear is solid and a leader should install TCU's both with 2 cams to left and 2 cams to right to see which orientation is most solid. Expect to do a move or two with gear at your feet.

Photos

Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.8-
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.8-
Very heads-up lead. I found myself wishing I had offset cams or hexes or something? Lots of flared placements. Maybe that's just how it is. Very cool pitch! Link with not-so-easy arch then chickenhead highway for a great day out. Jul 1, 2017
Karl Groll
Tucson, AZ
Karl Groll   Tucson, AZ
Really fun and thoughtful, with movement that's never very hard but delicate and interesting. Although there's definitely bomber gear, agree that it's not a good first trad lead.

Not sure where the exact line goes, but I like transitioning left to the big chicken head in the middle after the crack peters out. It's far and I almost have to, like, slowly fall over to it, but it's huge and easy to stick. Excellent!

With a 70, you can lead all the way up to the start of the Orange Slice for one long (almost 200 ft!) pitch. 60 might work if the belayer started up the ramp? Save some hand size stuff for an anchor in the Slice. Jul 26, 2015
Andrew Megas-Russell   Tucson, AZ
I agree with Adrian... I thought the gear placements were a little small/sparse (typical classic mt. lemmon style) and I would not recommend this as a first lead for any budding trad leader. Standard Route/ Black Quacker would be a much better option for a new leader because there is more pro readily available. Either way, Rappel Rock hosts some of the better quality granite on the mountain! Feb 11, 2015
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
This route is absolutely wild. Aug 14, 2013
adrian korosec
tucson,az
adrian korosec   tucson,az
I thought this route was stiff for the grade. Granted, did it off the couch, but it kept me on my toes.

To be done as a first lead at the grade? I don't think so. Oct 29, 2010