Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Rich Thompson, Gary Axen, Kem Johnson '74
Page Views: 2,979 total · 21/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 19, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

20' Left of the obvious 3'-4' left arching corner (Rotissima Bueno) is a 20' ramp leading to a 20' crack/flake system. The route climbs this crack/flake then a series of ribs then connects into the Rotissima corner at about 65'. Continue up the corner then through some steep moves to stand atop a horn and a spicy move for short folks to a good hold. (although you can step left according to the guide book authors Steiger, EFR et al). Continue up to a ledge system 7' below a bush (belay to down to the right on ledge). A really good 5.7 adventure with traditional Mt Lemmon pro. See the pro section.

There are no permanent anchors on the ledge and it requires 2 ropes to touch the ground. An easier escape is to trend left up a 5.5 crack to the giant "Orange Slice" corner then go left to easy ground and off. I would recommend the "Not So Easy Arch" finish as a better quality exit.

Location

60' left of Black Quacker, just left of Rotissima Bueno at Rap rock's base

Protection

Stoppers, 9/16" shoulder slings, TCU's to 1.5", and camming units to 3". Save a #5 "wc rock" for the moves getting to the corner up high. The gear is solid and a leader should install TCU's both with 2 cams to left and 2 cams to right to see which orientation is most solid. Expect to do a move or two with gear at your feet.

Photos