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Routes in Rappel Rock

Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charadras T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Grossman, Rich Thompson '74
Page Views: 2,773 total, 27/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 19, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

  • ** this route starts 1 pitch up the wall above Main Gate and Charadras etc.

The main feature is a right angling arch/roof 220' off the ground, just down and left from Voodoo Child's crux pitch.

P1) From the ledge system at 120' (belay for Main Gate ,Charadras) follow a chickenheads left of 45' crack system above the ledge. Traverse right (across the crack) when comfortable and up more heads to the base of the arch. Climb the arch (many good stoppers etc) to its end to belay on chickenheads (and a 1" TCU in roof). (150', 5.5)
P2) Climb the steep section above belay then trend left (tying off c-heads) to an vertical area of heads and run rope to its end. Belay on chickenheads. (160-180', easy 5th).
P3) finish off to summit (<100', 4th class)

Combined with Charadras this is a fine easy summit route to get up Rap Rock.

Location

Left of Black Quacker, the arch/roof feature is obvious

Protection

Stoppers and camming units to 3". Shoulder length runners for chickenheads.

Photos

Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.5
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.5
Just about as good as (ye olde school) 5.5 gets! Looks like it should be a 5.9 from below, but it just climbs and protects like a dream. Watch for rope drag over the roof and make sure you're trained up on slinging/belaying from chickenheads. Note: while this pitch and the chickenhead highway above is well-protected and very moderate, the approach pitch options (Charadras etc) are much more heads up leads. So sadly you should be a solid 5.8/5.9 gear leader before getting on this gem. Jul 1, 2017
adrian korosec
tucson,az
adrian korosec   tucson,az
Great climb with perfect protection. Oct 29, 2010