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> 8 - Summit Crags
> Rappel Rock
Not So Easy Arch
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 2.8 from 13
votes
Routes in Rappel Rock
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Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Charadras T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Steve Grossman, Rich Thompson '74 |
| Page Views: | 4,577 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Jul 19, 2009 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
- ** this route starts 1 pitch up the wall above Main Gate and Charadras etc.
The main feature is a right angling arch/roof 220' off the ground, just down and left from Voodoo Child's crux pitch.
P1) From the ledge system at 120' (belay for Main Gate ,Charadras) follow a chickenheads left of 45' crack system above the ledge. Traverse right (across the crack) when comfortable and up more heads to the base of the arch. Climb the arch (many good stoppers etc) to its end to belay on chickenheads (and a 1" TCU in roof). (150', 5.5)
P2) Climb the steep section above belay then trend left (tying off c-heads) to an vertical area of heads and run rope to its end. Belay on chickenheads. (160-180', easy 5th).
P3) finish off to summit (<100', 4th class)
Combined with Charadras this is a fine easy summit route to get up Rap Rock.
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