South Face Rock Climbing

The South face of Rappel Rock is where most of the well-known multi-pitch moderates are. Many of the routes are 400-500 feet long, making them some of the longest on the mountain. The "Standard Route" (5.5 or 5.7) and "Black Quacker" (5.7) are the most popular, with "Bender-Axen" (5.8) being a favorite for starting up this right side of the South Face. Most people link the best pitches of these routes and simply refer to is as The Standard Route, as it is easy to choose your own adventure from Pine Tree Ledge (Pitch 1 belay). A popular & high-quality linkup is Bender-Axen > Standard Route > Black Quacker. Swap out "Quick Death" (5.9+) as P2 for one of the better 5.9 finger cracks on the mountain, and start on "Chiboni" (5.9+) for a stout lesson in old-school slab.

"Voodoo Child" (5.11a) and "Helm's Deep" (5.10+) are not to be missed and were put up in 1971 with Kronhoffers or Blue RRs. Chouinard hexes were first out in '71 and stoppers in '72. A true testament to the Mike McEwen/Dave Baker team. Rich history can be found on the South face's left side with other routes put up through the 1970's. "Lude" (5.11a), Ray Ringle's first 5.11 lead, was naturally called 5.10 at the time (1977). Steve Grossman would soon after leave his mark via committing routes like "Baradur" (5.11+ R) & "Bridge of Khazal-dum" (5.11 R) in 1979.

Many parties stash packs and rack up by the North face, as this is where you end up after walking off.