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Routes in Rappel Rock

Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charadras T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ray Ringle, 1977
Page Views: 690 total, 9/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Named after the source of a night's diversion (it was the 70s), this route climbs an attractive hanging corner past a small roof on the left side of Rappel Rock. This may be RR's first 5.11 FA lead, which naturally we rated 5.10 at the time, even though none of us could follow it. The crux is brief and well-protected by gear and a pin (although, uh, if the pin is still there, it is now 34 years old!). I don't think RR would mind if the pin was replaced with a nice fat bolt.

Location

When walking along the base of Rappel from the west, skirt past an obvious right-slanting 3rd class ramp until the wall gets steeper. Look for a hanging dihedral, presumably with a fixed pin, before reaching Baradur.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Gear belay.

Photos

Dj telle
Tucson, Arizona
 
Dj telle   Tucson, Arizona
 
I thought I'd run into some sort of anchors since we were still craggin so we just rapped clean off a chicken head leaving nothing behind. Really fun climbing on this one Jun 8, 2017
This is a must do classic! May 19, 2016
greg k
 
greg k  
 
38 years later the pin still looks surprisingly solid. there is a green c3 slot just a couple of inches below this relic if one is so inclined.
the rock was great and the crux "thoughtful"! Jul 12, 2015