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Routes in Rappel Rock

Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charadras T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Jake Bender, Dave Baker '71
Page Views: 594 total, 6/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 19, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Just right of Rotissma Bueno are a series of short cracks leading up the lip of the Rotissma corner. Tricky gear protection and sporty tied off chickenheads. Essentially 3 exits. The right (more or less direct) involves insecure move 4' above a modest tied off chickenhead. The center, a mantle up over a hollow chickenhead. Left, connecting into Charadras' steep exit (and mucho rope drag). Expect climbing above gear several feet on three occasions. NOT for a novice leader. I have a hard time giving this a star- and only for the direct (right) exit. The other two exits are "bomb" class.

Location

Just right of Rotissima Bueno, 40' left of Black Quacker

Protection

stoppers and TCU's. 9/16" shoulder slings AND the technique to secure them are essential.

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