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Routes in Rappel Rock

Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charadras T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: SG, JS '81
Page Views: 348 total · 9/month
Shared By: Andy Bennett on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details


This description is just for the first pitch, to let the community know that, thanks to the ASCA, the aging bolts have been replaced.

A pretty fun crack and face section down low leads to a mantle under the first bolt that will really get your attention. 2 more bolts with scant but adequate pro in-between lead to a gear anchor on Easy Street ledge and your 2nd pitch options (Orange Slice, Not So Easy Arch, etc.)

The "R" in SQLIII seems to be for the second pitch variation that skirts the Orange Slice (we chose to bail on Easy Arch as it was getting dark; you can continue the 1st pitch past the ledge to the base of that route). I felt like the first pitch was PG13/R, but I think you'd be fine with an attentive belayer.

Note that Storm Crow appears to be the plumb route that takes all its neighbors(Isengard, Rottissima, Charadras, etc.) to the top , but there are safer alternatives for the 2nd pitch.

3rd-5th pitches are your typical "low angle lost in the maw Rap Rock adventure"...We managed to get off in 3.


This route is generally located to the left of Black Quacker and to the right of Helm's Deep; it is specifically in-between Charadras and Isengard


Bolts; slings for 'heads'; full assortment of stoppers (I found small-med brass to be helpful); single cams from BD C3 #0-#3, with a few extra finger-hand size for the anchor



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