All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 8 - Summit Crags > Rappel Rock > S Face

Black Quacker

Name: Black Quacker
Rating: 2.8

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in South Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Charadras T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Girdle Traverse ( Left to Right) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Isengard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Rap Rock Wrap T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

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Type:	Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
GPS:	32.43209, -110.79335
FA:	Dave Baker, Mike McEwen, 1971
Page Views:	11,371 total · 40/month
Shared By:	James DeRoussel on Oct 25, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.

If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.

Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.

More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…

Description

This is a fun route to do if you want a long, sustained trad route. Start in the huge left facing corner near the center of the south face of Rappel Rock.

Pitch 1: Climb the 5.6 squeeze chimney for 40 feet and exit into gully up to tree belay. (Many parties start up the Standard Route instead, to avoid this heinous chimney. To bypass this chimney pitch, climb the 5.5 crack just right of Black Quacker until you can traverse left back to tree belay in gully.)

Pitch 2: Continue up gully, climbing over large blocks and some vegetation. Cleaner climbing above leads past steep moves to one-bolt belay in notch.

Pitch 3: From notch, lead up and left into obvious cracks. Fun climbing for 100' to two-bolt belay.

Pitch 4: From bolt belay, climb right and up around corner. Follow easy face up to belay on chickenheads.

Pitch 5: More easy chickenhead hiking leads to summit area and tree belay.

Descent: Third class down back side of Rappel Rock to return to saddle.

Protection

60m rope; Standard rack (larger pro if you want to do the chimney first pitch?); single and double length runners for tying off chickenheads.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2017.