Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Rappel Rock

Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charadras T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mike McEwen, Dave Baker, 1971
Page Views: 4,416 total, 23/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


34 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Chiboni is a wonderfully challenging pitch of slab climbing at the base of Rappel Rock. You can use this as a starting pitch for any of the lines that head for the tree ledge where the Standard Route/Black Quacker end their first pitches. Start a bit left of the toe of the buttress, move up and around the right end of a low roof and then up the undulating face above. As I said above, there are some good stretches between bolts and you'll have to keep your head about you. A Rap Rock classic!!

Apparently a Chiboni is a sort of Russian bagpipe also called a Gudastviri. Not sure if that's where the name came from, just what a web search turned up. The gudastviri is a droneless, double-chantered, horn-belled bagpipe played in Georgia. The term comes from the words guda (bag) and stviri (whistling). In some regions, the instrument is called the chiboni, stviri, or tulumi.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiboni

Maybe one of the older Tucson climbers could confirm or deny this is where the name came from?

Protection

Chiboni is bolted (and there used to be a fixed pin), but hardly a sport route. Some good stretches of slab paddling are required between clips.

Photos

Andrew Megas-Russell   Tucson, AZ
I just climbed this for the first time and had a blast! Classic slab climbing. A strong head required, but nothing a locker on your quick draw can't ease. I climbed it in a warm spell in February and the temps were in the 60's and just perfect for high friction. I would not get on this on a slimy, hot day. I agree with Hendrixson's route finding beta. And yeah, the old SMC's are a little loose. Feb 11, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+ PG13
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.9+ PG13
Up until a few years ago there was a piton at the roof prior to the first bolt. I've climbed it both with and without the piton and believe that despite the gear being adequate it ups the commitment level.

I tend to start slightly to the left, place gear in the obvious weakness in the roof, and then move to the right where the slab is less blank. Never seen anyone else do it so there may be a better way.

Hope this helps. Aug 15, 2012
adrian korosec
tucson,az
adrian korosec   tucson,az
Looking for a little beta here.

Comming in from the left does one use the underside of the roof as a layback, or the crack where the roof meets the slab? I started using the little crack but thought it was a bit easier standing up and unclinging the underside of the roof, however that requires blind groping.

Climbing directly straight up to the right side of the roof looks much harder than traversing in from upper left.

Was there a pin under the roof in the past? Small TCUs are a chore to get in. After the roof things become manageable, but up to, and around the roof is tough to climb and protect. Great pitch! Aug 15, 2012
Lead this back in '93 or so with my old friend Charlie King. Aug 20, 2011
James if you like slabs the place to go is Out of Towners Dome in the East Stronghold. Not only the best but probably also the hardest. The other good ones on Rap are Voodoo Child and Black Magic Woman Jun 30, 2008
James DeRoussel
Tucson, AZ
 
James DeRoussel   Tucson, AZ
 
One of the best slab climbs in Arizona. Jun 30, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.9+ PG13
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.9+ PG13
Sweet pitch.. Beautiful rock too.. Sep 6, 2006
Jimbo  
Jbak, great anecdote.
Isn't it amazing how the farther you get above the gear the more likly it becomes your going to onsite the pitch.
I miss the old days sometimes. It's too easy to go out and clip bolts now. No more pumping yourself up for the "headpoint".
Times change, I've gone to the dark side, like so many others.
Every now and then it's good to jump on a route like Voodoo Child or Straight Arrow. Just you remind yourself of the way things were, "back in the day". Mar 8, 2006
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Hey greg...I did VC back when it was rusty buttonheads !

Assuming the bolts are still where they were, I would classify VC as "mentally absorbing" rather than scary. Where it's 5.11a, the bolt is nearby. As you get above the bolt, the climbing gets easier at exactly the rate necessary to keep panic at bay as the bolt recedes. After doing the 5.6 moves to gain the ledge I looked down and saw nothing but rope, the bolt was out of sight. Perfect. The day I did the Chiboni/QD/VC combo, Steiger was there making drawings for his guidebook. The Summit Hut guide said VC was 5.10 but I had heard it was harder. I yelled down to John "Hey is that 5.11 ?". He said "Yes". I said "cool, my first 5.11 flash". He said "Mine too !". Feb 21, 2006
jbak
 
jbak  
 
The combination of Chiboni, Quick Death and Voodoo Child is a Tucson classic. Feb 13, 2006
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
  5.9+
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
  5.9+
The distance between bolts on this route makes for some scary runouts. May 24, 2004