All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (San… > Mount Lemmon (Cat… > 8 - Summit Crags > Rappel Rock
Black Magic Woman
Avg: 3 from 6 votes
Routes in Rappel Rock
|Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Charadras T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||EFR & Steve Amter, 1986|
|Page Views:||1,316 total, 18/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Sep 24, 2011|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details
This area is closed March 15 - June 30 for peregrine falcon nesting.
DescriptionBlack Magic Woman is two pitches of superb slab and face that parallels Voodoo Child high on rappel rock. Strictly speaking, the route is two pitches, but you have to climb several pitches to get there. Like SQL II says, this is easier that VC but more sustained. The feet are also a little gritty-it probably doesn't get much traffic. It's still a great pitch. Unlike VC, you need geir and there is hard climbing, possibly even 5.10+ climbing, that is gear-protected.
From the shared belay with Voodoo Child, climb straight up the thin crack with tricky 5.10 moves and good gear. Clip into a pin (contrary to the SQL II topo, this pin comes before any of the bolts) and continue past 5 bolts with great cruxy moves and micro route-finding all over the place. The climbing finally eases as you near the 2-bolt anchor, which is also not shown on the SQL II topo.
From this anchor, one more pitch (5.8ish) straight up past two bolts and over a fun roof to the chickenheads leads to the top. This pitch is a pretty contrived, but fun.