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Routes in Rappel Rock

Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charadras T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: EFR & Steve Amter, 1986
Page Views: 1,326 total, 17/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Sep 24, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Black Magic Woman is two pitches of superb slab and face that parallels Voodoo Child high on rappel rock. Strictly speaking, the route is two pitches, but you have to climb several pitches to get there. Like SQL II says, this is easier that VC but more sustained. The feet are also a little gritty-it probably doesn't get much traffic. It's still a great pitch. Unlike VC, you need geir and there is hard climbing, possibly even 5.10+ climbing, that is gear-protected.

From the shared belay with Voodoo Child, climb straight up the thin crack with tricky 5.10 moves and good gear. Clip into a pin (contrary to the SQL II topo, this pin comes before any of the bolts) and continue past 5 bolts with great cruxy moves and micro route-finding all over the place. The climbing finally eases as you near the 2-bolt anchor, which is also not shown on the SQL II topo.

From this anchor, one more pitch (5.8ish) straight up past two bolts and over a fun roof to the chickenheads leads to the top. This pitch is a pretty contrived, but fun.

Location

Begins from the 2-bolt anchor that marks the start of Voodoo Child's crux pitch. This anchor is hidden (i.e. not visible from the notch at the top of the Obituary Column) in a corner just to the left of P3 of Black Quacker, about 1/2 way up that pitch.

Protection

A set of small cams and small-medium stoppers (including large rps) will give options for the initial 5.10 thin crack. From the piton henceforth, 6 draws is sufficient. The bolts are a bit spaced in places but there is nothing to hit.

Photos

Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
If anyone wants to climb this with me just let me know. Jun 5, 2012
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
You don't need Gear. You just need to stop doing Voodoo Child so much and open your eyes to the other possibilities.

Seriously, you should get on this John, it's great and well-protected, even though the geir is small. I laced it up. Jun 5, 2012
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Amusing typo:

"Unlike VC, you need geir and there is hard climbing, possibly even 5.10+ climbing, that is gear-protected."

I probably would need Geir or another trad hard-man to rope gun this thing for me. Jun 5, 2012
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Funny comments. I don't get the impression that people are doing Voodoo Child "over and over" anymore. Jun 5, 2012
Jimbo  
Too bad it obscures the line of Voodoo Child. Just like EFR. Nov 24, 2011
This is to confirm that Eric and I did the route in 1986. We considered it a nice variation to Voodoo Child which people tended to do over and over. Nov 23, 2011
JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
SQL II says EFR and Steve Amter in 1986. For some reason I thought Bob Kerry was in on that, too, but EFR would know fer sure. (Never tried it in the snow!) Sep 24, 2011
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
I have misplaced SQL II and only remember that EFR did the route sometime in the '80s, but can't remember his partner. Maybe EFR could chime in, or I will update when I find the book. Sep 24, 2011