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Voodoo Child
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 18
votes
Routes in South Face
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Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Charadras T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Girdle Traverse ( Left to Right) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Isengard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Rap Rock Wrap T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 32.43209, -110.79335 |
| FA: | Mike McEwen, Dave Baker 1971 |
| Page Views: | 5,028 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Costas Sofianos on Jul 19, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
Excellent pitch of slab climbing! Thin moves angling up and left past three bolts. Crux is well protected, but 5.9 runout above is not. Belay on small ledge with three bolt anchor.
Charles Vernon adds: This is actually a four-pitch route starting from the left end of Pine Tree ledge, out of the Black Quacker gully. Pitches 1 & 2 as shown in SQ II are fun (particularly the arching 5.9 corner), mildly spicy, and can be combined. They are not as good as Quick Death, but worth doing if you've already done that route. A light rack to a #2 friend is sufficient for these pitches. After the crux, the last pitch, which is much easier, heads straight up past a bolt to the chickenheads. Or you can head up and right to merge with the last contrived, but fun 5.8ish pitch of Black Magic Woman.
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