Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown, 1963
Page Views: 9,024 total · 41/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 20, 2001 with improvements by CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

On the lower South face of Rap Rock, the right hand edge forms a big slabby apron. The left side of this apron forms a huge dihedral with the main wall, which is Black Quacker. Just right of Black Quacker lie the following routes, from left-to right:P1 of The Standard Route (5.5 or 5.7, OK gear), Chiboni (5.9, pin + 3 bolts), Death Or Glory (5.10X, slab) Bender Axen (5.8 cracks) and Take To your Heals (5.9X, slab).

The standard Route is climbed as follows:P1: (5.6 *) Climb up and right across a few slab moves to reach a groove/crack. Place a piece and go up the crack for perhaps 60' to a nice ledge at the base of a big pine tree, and belay here. You can climb the rest of the route or escape now, by climbing to the right between two grooves (5.2?) to reach the escape slabs, and them climb up chickenheads and horns to the summit (5.2?)

P2: (5.7, *) Climb up and right from the ledge on a set of intermittent seams, for maybe 50 feet. Step left to a right facing corner, then climb up to a ledge. From this pevious corner, you can escape right onto the East Slabs and finish to the sumit from there, if you desire to do so, or else you can continue this pitch on past siad ledge and up to another left facing corner. Climb this for another 30 feet or so to a downward pointing flake. Maneuver to the righthand side of this and up to a belay on the ledge up and left of the top of the flake.

P3-5: Finish as for Black Quacker or choose a place to escape to the right and onto the East Slabs to the summit.

Protection

A standard set of stoppers, cams .5" to 4", small tricams + spare long slings for tying off chicken-heads and slinging horns.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2017.

Photos