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Routes in Rappel Rock

Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charadras T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bender and Axen, date unknown
Page Views: 3,481 total, 18/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

The Bender-Axen pitch starts about 20 feet right of the toe of the buttress where Chiboni is located. You can identify it as a nice straight up crack that peters out about 15 feet above the base. This is (IMHO) the best moderate starting pitch for the Standard Route or Black Quacker. Not as much of a thrash as the chimney or the wide crack to the left. From the base, start left of the bottom of the crack and work your way up and right to gain the crack. This is a bit polished and getting a spot from your partner until you get that first piece in the crack is a good idea. After that, just enjoyable easier crack climbing up (and a bit left at the top) to the a ledge system and big tree (with slings, usually). Very nice!!!

Protection

Small to medium pro will suffice. Might need more gear if you continue to the top via another route.

Photos

Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.8
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.8
That slab is harder than the start on Chiboni. the easy way is to do the running start! Jul 9, 2008
Braxtron
...
  5.5
Braxtron   ...
  5.5
Only one "move" of 5.8 (to get to the crack); then it's 5.5ish and really fun.

I really like this route because it's casual, long, and in a beautiful setting. Feb 25, 2007
brad schierer
Tucson, AZ
brad schierer   Tucson, AZ
I agree that this is the best start to Black Quacker, no probably about it! Oct 9, 2006
jbak
 
jbak  
 
The easiest 5.8 on earth. The only worthy form of ascent for this route is free-solo while carrying gear to do one of the upper routes. Feb 14, 2006
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.8
This climb is a great way to start a number of the moderate routes which climb the south face of Rap Rock. If you want to avoid the hell chimney, which I consider to be no fun at all, on Black Quacker I definitely recommend this as an alternative. The gear is great the whole way. Curve left at the top and belay at the enormous Pine tree on the ledge. Mar 28, 2005
Agreed... Was my first lead ever, around 13 years ago. Nice to have the crux so close to the ground. Since there is no pro anyway, no fiddling with gear through the 5.8 part. I take most of my new climbers there for their first lead. Fun with light exposure, protects very well, and a no brainer belay.... Watch out for the ants on the ledge! Jul 25, 2003