Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Rappel Rock

Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charadras T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,599 total, 16/month
Shared By: Joe Lee on Jul 12, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Climb an easy slab with discontinuous cracks up and then right to reach the left facing open dihedral capped by a roof. The start of the dihedral is the business. After the roof, move upwards to hit the roof crack and then traverse left. The original route continues upward still but we escaped further left to get on Pine Tree Ledge.

Addendum: you can also start on the slab directly below the corner. There is no protection but the climbing is pretty secure. Bout 5.7/5.8ish I think.

Location

As you hike down the east side of Rappel Rock, near the toe, you'll see a right facing corner that transitions into a wide crack. To the right of the wide crack, you can see a pretty left facing open corner. Start by a small tree at the base. You want to approach the corner from the left.

Protection

Bring your standard rack. There are two old bolts. Don't worry. Since the leader mustn't fall.

!!! Protect your second on the traverse. And if you decide to traverse further to Pine Tree Ledge, you won't be able to protect the moves down and left for the second. A fall for the second will be bad. But the climbing isn't that hard. Just make sure the second has a cool head.

Photos

supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

check this out JFOX Apr 9, 2015
they came out like butter. Oct 18, 2010
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Must be the same reason that people like old cars; some sense of lingering nostalgia to be had. That or it filled the pseudo-pucker cup. Or... Neptunes is building an addition and has a bounty out on more vintage gear to fill the counters. Damn you rogue hardware upgrader! ;) Oct 4, 2010
You would think we were talking on the phone and typing at the same time. That's funny. Oct 4, 2010
Nice route. Someone replaced the two, old button heads with newer bolts. Too bad. It used to be more fun, and there is gear to be had, though it takes some fiddling.

I hate when someone replaces old buttonheads with modern bolts. Whoever did that is an asshole. JFox, why was it more fun doing the route with two bolts that might not hold a fall? Oct 4, 2010
Jimbo  
Just curious how is a route more fun if you need to clip to very old button heads as opposed to nice new bolts? When the FA party put in the button heads they were bomber. 30 years later not so much. Seems like the route is now back to it's original condition.
Skip the new ones if you need to rush. Just saying. Oct 4, 2010
JFox
Cottonwood
JFox   Cottonwood
Nice route. Someone replaced the two, old button heads with newer bolts. Too bad. It used to be more fun, and there is gear to be had, though it takes some fiddling. Oct 3, 2010