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Charadras
5.8-,
Trad, 120 ft (36 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 11
votes
FA: Rich Thompson, Gary Axen, Kem Johnson '74
Arizona
> Southern Arizona
> Mt Lemmon (Sant…
> Mt Lemmon (Cata…
> 8 - Summit Crags
> Rappel Rock
> S Face
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
20' Left of the obvious 3'-4' left arching corner (Rotissima Bueno) is a 20' ramp leading to a 20' crack/flake system. The route climbs this crack/flake then a series of ribs then connects into the Rotissima corner at about 65'. Continue up the corner then through some steep moves to stand atop a horn and a spicy move for short folks to a good hold. (although you can step left according to the guide book authors Steiger, EFR et al). Continue up to a ledge system 7' below a bush (belay to down to the right on ledge). A really good 5.7 adventure with traditional Mt Lemmon pro. See the pro section.
There are no permanent anchors on the ledge and it requires 2 ropes to touch the ground. An easier escape is to trend left up a 5.5 crack to the giant "Orange Slice" corner then go left to easy ground and off. I would recommend the "Not So Easy Arch" finish as a better quality exit.
Location
60' left of Black Quacker, just left of Rotissima Bueno at Rap rock's base
Protection
Stoppers, 9/16" shoulder slings, TCU's to 1.5", and camming units to 3". Save a #5 "wc rock" for the moves getting to the corner up high. The gear is solid and a leader should install TCU's both with 2 cams to left and 2 cams to right to see which orientation is most solid. Expect to do a move or two with gear at your feet.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1, starts on/above that feature in the bottom right, and follows the left-trending seem below the corner above (rotissima). Big chimney in top left is the Orange Slice.
[Hide Comment] I agree with Adrian... I thought the gear placements were a little small/sparse (typical classic mt. lemmon style) and I would not recommend this as a first lead for any budding trad leader. Standard Route/ Black Quacker would be a much better option for a new leader because there is more pro readily available. Either way, Rappel Rock hosts some of the better quality granite on the mountain!
Feb 11, 2015
[Hide Comment] Really fun and thoughtful, with movement that's never very hard but delicate and interesting. Although there's definitely bomber gear, agree that it's not a good first trad lead.
Not sure where the exact line goes, but I like transitioning left to the big chicken head in the middle after the crack peters out. It's far and I almost have to, like, slowly fall over to it, but it's huge and easy to stick. Excellent!
With a 70, you can lead all the way up to the start of the Orange Slice for one long (almost 200 ft!) pitch. 60 might work if the belayer started up the ramp? Save some hand size stuff for an anchor in the Slice.
Jul 26, 2015
[Hide Comment] Very heads-up lead. I found myself wishing I had offset cams or hexes or something? Lots of flared placements. Maybe that's just how it is. Very cool pitch! Link with not-so-easy arch then chickenhead highway for a great day out.
Jul 1, 2017
Avg: 2.5 from 11
votes
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
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tucson, az
To be done as a first lead at the grade? I don't think so. Oct 29, 2010
Tucson, AZ
Tucson, AZ
Not sure where the exact line goes, but I like transitioning left to the big chicken head in the middle after the crack peters out. It's far and I almost have to, like, slowly fall over to it, but it's huge and easy to stick. Excellent!
With a 70, you can lead all the way up to the start of the Orange Slice for one long (almost 200 ft!) pitch. 60 might work if the belayer started up the ramp? Save some hand size stuff for an anchor in the Slice. Jul 26, 2015
Tucson, AZ