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Routes in The Warlock

Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Imaginary Voyage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea of Tranquility T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Lechlinski, Gingery, et al... 1978?
Page Views: 2,381 total, 23/month
Shared By: Levy on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Lieback, stem & face climb up the attractive left facing, left arching corner. Where the arch gets thin & disappears, step left to a bolted belay. The infrequently done 2nd pitch, ascends past 1 bolt(5.10+) to a huge runout to easier climbing, to join the S Crack or South Face route which can be followed to the top.

Location

On the east face of the Warlock, out along the ledge left 60 feet from Imaginary Voyage.

Protection

Lots of small wireds, tech cams & such to 2 1/2 inches. The bolts on this belay should be modernized, currently it is 2 x 1/4" bolts from the 1970's
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
 
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
 
The anchor bolts at the top of P1 and the protection bolts on P2 are now upgraded to stainless 5 piece powers. The lead bolts are 3/8" x 3" and the anchor is one 3/8" and one 1/2". Have fun!!

Also Shadows in the Rain, the face climb to the right of Imaginary Voyage has new bolts.

Special thanks to Levy, without whose hard work this would not have happenned. And to Greg Barnes and the ASCA for the materials. Jul 14, 2011