Avg: 3 from 59 votes
Routes in The Warlock
|Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Imaginary Voyage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sea of Tranquility T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13|
|South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Laeger, Laeger, & Jaffe - June, 1981|
|Page Views:||5,368 total, 38/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe Howling is a great two-pitch climb up the NW shoulder of the Warlock and is probably the easiest passage to the summit.
P1: Begin by climbing one of two or three crack systems on the NW corner of the Warlock - right off the trail. These cracks generally go at 5.9-5.10... Choose the most aesthetic one. Belay at a cool ledge-like perch that gives good views to the south, but it may be better to move the belay around to the left and closer to the start of the second pitch.
P2: Climb up a leaning flake and sling the top for pro before committing to a move up onto the face/arete. Continue up the exposed arete via positive edges and gradually easier climbing, past an intermediate anchor and on to the summit -- a fantastic pitch protected by bolts.
Rap Down to the North (two ropes required).