Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Laeger, Laeger, & Jaffe - June, 1981
Page Views: 7,506 total · 44/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The Howling is a great two-pitch climb up the NW shoulder of the Warlock and is probably the easiest passage to the summit.

P1: Begin by climbing one of two or three crack systems on the NW corner of the Warlock - right off the trail. These cracks generally go at 5.9-5.10. The left one is the most direct and original line, the middle one is the most aesthetic, and the righthand one (a chimney) is super easy but requires a traverse left to reach the belay. Belay at a cool ledge-like perch that gives good views to the south, but it may be better to move the belay around to the left and closer to the start of the second pitch.

P2: Climb up a leaning flake and sling the top for pro before committing to a move up onto the face/arete. Continue up the exposed arete via positive edges and gradually easier climbing, past an intermediate anchor (the anchor for Titanic) and on to the summit - a fantastic pitch protected by bolts.

Rap Down to the North (a single 70 will just barely reach).

Protection

Single set plus draws.

Photos