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Routes in The Warlock

Bird of Prey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Imaginary Voyage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea of Tranquility T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Dave Wonderly & Don Wilson
Page Views: 712 total · 6/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 19, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Dragon's Back takes the knife-edge arete just right of Imaginary Voyage. Approach by hiking all the way around the north side of the Warlock (dropping fairly low into the trees on a decent trail). Once on the east side, the climb is obvious.

Head up the arete past bolts and a few gear placements. A bit spicy due to some of the bolt locations.

Two raps with a single 60m rope to get down -- one off the anchor to a ledge with a tree in the corner to the right of the climb, then one rap off the tree to the base.


Single set of cams from blue to red Alien. Small wires. Draws. Something to replace the tat on the anchor.


  5.10d R
  5.10d R
I thought the best start was to the right of the arete, belaying high off of gear. Spicy and very committing, but with rests. A great route if you are looking for one more pitch at the end of a hot day (goes into the shade late).

With a 60m rope you get to a lowish angle "butt wedge" descent about 20' off the ground. Alternately you could rap to a tree and with wrap your rope around the tree or add some tat.

NOTE: The above mentions starting "to the right of the arete", I believe this is a mistake on my part. We belayed high to the LEFT of the arete. The lead then crosses over the arete to the right side. Aug 5, 2009

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