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Routes in The Warlock

Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Imaginary Voyage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea of Tranquility T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Dave Wonderly & Don Wilson
Page Views: 700 total · 6/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 19, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Dragon's Back takes the knife-edge arete just right of Imaginary Voyage. Approach by hiking all the way around the north side of the Warlock (dropping fairly low into the trees on a decent trail). Once on the east side, the climb is obvious.

Head up the arete past bolts and a few gear placements. A bit spicy due to some of the bolt locations.

Two raps with a single 60m rope to get down -- one off the anchor to a ledge with a tree in the corner to the right of the climb, then one rap off the tree to the base.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Single set of cams from blue to red Alien. Small wires. Draws. Something to replace the tat on the anchor.

Photos

Murf
  5.10d R
Murf  
  5.10d R
I thought the best start was to the right of the arete, belaying high off of gear. Spicy and very committing, but with rests. A great route if you are looking for one more pitch at the end of a hot day (goes into the shade late).

With a 60m rope you get to a lowish angle "butt wedge" descent about 20' off the ground. Alternately you could rap to a tree and with wrap your rope around the tree or add some tat.

NOTE: The above mentions starting "to the right of the arete", I believe this is a mistake on my part. We belayed high to the LEFT of the arete. The lead then crosses over the arete to the right side. Aug 5, 2009

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