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Routes in The Warlock

Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Imaginary Voyage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea of Tranquility T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fred Beckey, Dan McHale, Mike Heath, April 1970
Page Views: 7,466 total, 66/month
Shared By: ttriche on Aug 22, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route has a very distinct psychological crux, 3 to 5 pitches up depending on where you belay, as you leave the large formation known as the Pedestal. The face traverse is technically easy but nervy; rest assured that you will have plenty of exposure and a spectacular view for these moves. Lower down there are a number of "don't screw this up" moves with dubious protection, par for the course on the longer routes ascending the south face of the Warlock. There is also a good deal of wide crack climbing and some chimneying involved.

While the climbing is not technically difficult, the route has the notable distinction of being the first recorded technical ascent of the Warlock (but see comment by Kris Solem for more details). It retains more of a 'backcountry' feel when compared to more popular routes like Igor, Airy, or Thin Ice; you are unlikely to run into crowds on this or neighboring routes. The flip side of this is that you may get lost or need to do some gardening low on the route.

Your reward for the bushwhacking adventure at the base is a fine route with excellent position and moderate climbing, which ascends the tallest spire in the Needles by an oft-ignored aspect, and affords much gawking at seemingly unclimbable sheer faces on golden granite, zebra-striped with water streaks, painted with bright yellow and crimson lichen. Beckey did not ignore aesthetics in choosing his first ascent here; this side of the Warlock is visually quite dramatic, and even now these routes are seldom climbed.

The route faces south (duh) and gets plenty of sun, so it is best to climb this in the cooler months before the road opens (April-May) or towards the end of the Needles season (September-October). I'd suggest bringing a 70m cord, since that's the shortest single rope that will reach for the rappels off the summit.

Location

Finding the right crack system at the base may be the true crux of the route -- a crack in a left-facing corner/groove which is not without dirt, lichen, and occasional stinging insects. (I will try and post a photo of the start, since it's difficult to describe well -- one attempt can be found here. Note that the small tree at the junction of two cracks near the end of the first pitch is a good landmark regardless)

Approach as for the Howling, Ghostbumps, etc. but keep descending around the base of the Warlock. The top of Voodoo Dome will come into view and then you will keep descending a rather unpleasant talus gully to arrive near the base of S Crack, Shadows in the Rain, and finally the original south face route.

If you have a copy of the guidebook, try to make sure that you don't go all the way around to the Styx (overhanging pillar thing that leans against the Warlock near its lowest point) or, worse, all the way around to the other side of the Pedestal. Good luck!

Protection

Full rack to 5" or so, depending on how comfortable the leader is with wide cracks; many slings (the route wanders a good bit on the lower pitches, and I do not recall there being any bolted belay stations on the route). It should be possible to retreat below the Pedestal with a single rope, but you would be leaving a lot of gear behind. Once you have passed the Pedestal, retreat may be problematic.
benkraft Kraft
San Francisco, California
benkraft Kraft   San Francisco, California
The somewhat well traveled trail to white punks (from the notch) passes pretty close to the start. Follow this trail down the side of voodoo dome for a while until you're level with the complicated crack systems on the warlock and walk over (I think this is the closest point between the domes / where the base of voodoo starts cutting around and left). Sep 8, 2015
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
A small detail. The first recorded route in The Needles (photographs an notes) was Sidewalk Magic on the Magician- a nice climb right of the more recent Black Magic. 1969. Dan Mchale and Joe Brown (not the brit.)

That fall McHale and Becky did the S Face of The Hermit.

The following year Becky, McHale and Mike Heath did the S Face of The Warlock. To their amazement they found a cairn atop the south summit. Mar 2, 2015
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
 
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
 
I've posted a marked up topo from the old guide, which we found to be pretty accurate. A great route. Not as classic as, say, Igor or Thin Ice, but a great route all the same. Adventurous and worth a little effort. Some notes on our climb.

Pitch 1: We saw another party on what we assumed was the first pitch, which they later told us was the first pitch of the S Crack. Either way, it was simple to traverse over to the second pitch of the South Face. Having said that, that's probably evidence that the true first pitch may be tricky to find for the first timer.

Pitch 2: Aim for the pine tree. There's a piece of old webbing around it. Once you're there, the route more or less follows the topo.

Pitch 4: There's a bit of loose rock that the party in front of us kicked off. Nothing major but take care if there're someone beneath you. There are some large, obvious flakes with rap slings at the base of the headwall to belay, right below the corner where the 10+ variation goes. If you need to pass a slow party and can fire this, this is a good place to do it.

Pitch 5: Not obvious from the topo, but climb down and left on easy and featured rock to the obvious chimney separating the Pedestal from the main face. Step across and squirm up a tight chimney pictured in Richard's photo titled "Rob Beno following P3". Tricky to get into but hard to fall out of once you do. A short pitch; maybe 40'. The Pedestal is a great hang.

Pitch 6: The rock is covered in scabs and flakes, that make for great climbing but will hang up a rope without fail. We carried a tag line for the rap off (since we only had a 60m) and both it and the lead line got snagged probably a half dozen times, a couple of times pretty badly. The newer bolt makes this a much safer and less scary pitch for the second. Still neither the leader nor follower should fall here.

From the huge ledge at the base of the summits, you can either 1) worm up a chimney to the middle summit, then work your way to the north summit, where you'll rap as for The Howling; 2) traverse below the huge boulder to an easy ramp where you'll scramble up to the base of the last pitch (5.9) for Imaginary Voyage; or 3) do a long rap from some big chains someone installed to the right of IA's last pitch. I've heard that you might be able to rap this with one 70m, but we didn't have a chance to verify this. If I did this again, I'd just bring a 70m and rap off The Howling. Avoid bringing a tag line if you can help it.

We left our packs near the base of the Howling and walked down in our climbing shoes (comfy ones), which wasn't as bad as I feared and beat hiking back down to retrieve packs left at the base. Also, there is a fair bit of wide, but not that much that has to be climbed as wide. From Richard's description, it sounds like he may have taken a wide line to the left of what's shown on the topo. There is a wide crack system that appears to drop down from the Pedestal to near the base. Nevertheless, bring both a #4 and #5. You'll have plenty of chances to place both.

Finally, the party ahead of us kicked off two rocks. If there's someone ahead of you (which seems unlikely but you never know), a helmet would be a good idea. Sep 4, 2014
JTLA Tolins
Los Angeles, California
 
JTLA Tolins   Los Angeles, California
 
Did the 3-4" jagged flake option for pitch one, and I may just need to work on my offwidth skills, but felt more like 10 b/c to me. Also, it took a #5 friend and could have easily taken bigger. The rest of the pitches seemed much more inline.

Overall a great climb and intimidating/committing for the grade. Aug 16, 2014
GPS coordinates of the 4th class gully start:
N36 06.334 W118 28.676

We only finished the first 3pitches and then had to bail, because we couldn't find the start of the 4th pitch.

The hike from trail head to the base took about 3 hours. The trail condition deteriorates quickly once we passed the start gully. If you started to push trees around, you probably have gone too far.
Once we got to the base, there were legions of ants ready to eat us alive. We had to start quickly, and it's trully wide climbing.
P2) I tried to start from the crack directly above the small oak tree, but it's 6+ inch and quite smooth. I had to move to the hand/fist crack above the pine tree on the left, which is much more protectable by regular size gear. then traversed right before the hand crack gets shallow and become verticle. it's still so wide! heel toe for what seemed to be a long way.
P3) I couldn't find the chimney described in the previous comments, instead I found this medium size crack range from fist to finger directly about the belay pillar. There are some small plants along the way that I had to step onto, but generally it's pretty pleasant to climb. It reached a ledge with a large triangular flake at the end which could be slinged for anchor. Now I know this is directly below the start of the 5.10+ aid pitch on the original route.
The 5.9 pitch may have a bolt on it now. It was to the left, pass and around a very wide but short chimney, with a platform on top. once you get to the top you can see a bolt on the face to the right. But I am not sure if I found the actual route.

Retreat was a huge pain with 60m route. Some spicy down climbing required for p3 and p2 rap. And the p3 hand crack can get your rope stuck easily if you pull directly below the crack. Bring a twin or 70m to avoid all these hassle.
I personally think double up to C4 #4 will be very nice, optional #5 depends on how comfortable you are with wide crack, from my limited experience with the first three pitches. May 28, 2014
FFA - 1976 - Jeff Dozier, David Black, and Steve Gerdsen. May 16, 2014
A wonderful adventure climb with lots of WIDE climbing. A long line with great position on the Warlock.

Pitch by Pitch breakdown:

P1) Near the top of the vegetated 4th class gully, and just before a large triangular chockstone, head up either a 3-4" jagged flake on the left or a crack system 10 feet to it's right. At a large bush, step right and head up an easy blocky/chimney to a belay at a small oak tree (NOT the massive Pine tree, just down and right from it).

P2) A wild foot, then hand traverse right around the arete leads to a beautiful RF dihedral with lots of fists and hands. Run this long pitch all the way to the top of a small pillar at the end of the corner.

P3) Climb up the crack ~20 feet, then step left/down to the next crack/chimney, and step left to the next crack/OW/chimney once again. Follow this to the top of "The Pedestal".

P4) Exciting face traverse (crux) to beautiful flakes and plates alongside a chimney. After 40 feet or so, get inside and follow it up to a nice large open stance in the chimney.

P5) Continue up the easy chimney as it turns right to nice hands in a tight corner. Belay atop a massive flat ledge on the east face of the Warlock.

P6) A short fists/stemming corner leads to an awkward squeeze move to gain the easy 5th class ridgeline on the middle summit. Belay from a single bolt and slung block.

P7) Rappel 15' (or downclimb) into the notch between the Middle and North Summits. A 3 bolt aid ladder leads to the summit. Alternatively, one may finish via Imaginary Voyage and step right around the arete to freeclimb (5.9) past two bolts to the summit.

Gear: Doubles to #3 camalot was nice. We brought a #4, and placed it a few times, but it was worthless/tipped out in every spot I wanted it. A #5 would be more useful. Jul 2, 2012
Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
Adventure climb... did it on Halloween 2009. I don't know if we found the right start or not, but it was kind of scary in a couple of spots. Ended up doing/aiding the 5.11 variation at "the pedestal" (probably because we were offroute, we traversed left from the right, but not enough). I think we brought doubles to #3 and a #4 camalot. Trip report/pictures at sightly.net/peter/trips/nee… Aug 31, 2010