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Routes in The Warlock

Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Imaginary Voyage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea of Tranquility T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Herb Laeger & Mark Krebs (and his colossal dog-wolf from Alaska)
Page Views: 1,692 total, 12/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 19, 2006 with updates
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The first pitch ends at a 2-bolt anchor (110 ft), Second pitch climbs diagonally up and right on face holds to a big ledge with another 2-bolt rap anchor is (100 ft). Rappel from this anchor diagonally left to first pitch anchors. Two 50 meter ropes were used during first assent. Original rating is 5.10b.

There is an unfinished extension that continues to the top, from the P2 anchor of Ghostbumps.

Protection

Mostly bolts. A light rack.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
From route contributor Josh Janes:
After summiting the Warlock, it is possible to rap down the north face over what appears to be a newly established climb. It has lots of new bolts (unfortunately these bolts are not stainless steel and will need replacing sooner rather than later). We TR'd the climb with 120 meters of rope -- the first pitch checked in at easy 5.10 (and had an intermediate belay), the second at hard 5.11. The climbing was quite cool -- up knobs and chickenheads and through several steep, cruxy bulges. If anyone knows more info about this climb, please chime in and I'll update the description. I believe that the first pitch described above is a two pitch 10b called "Ghostbumps" and the 5.11 bit is an unfinished extension. Jun 22, 2015
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
Josh did you guys actually get a clean TR on the third pitch up there?

I would suppose that to be giving it a grade you had to have, right?

Juss' curious... Jul 18, 2011
Murf  
My typo on the location of Flying Warlocks in relation to Ghostbumps ( a left/right issue) has been corrected, thanks John.

Also, Josh/Admin's, does it make sense that a route should have a 5.11 rating for an unfinished extension? The climbable pitches are about 5.10a. Jul 19, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
We did P1 and P2 and they were thoughtful and fun. Well protected for someone comfortable at 5.9+/5.10- face climbing. You'll want a standard rack for the first part of P1. P2 looks run out from the belay, but there are plenty of good holds between bolts.

If you only do P1 and P2, the grade checks in at 5.9+/10-. The last pitch is unfinished, and per Josh's description above seems like hard slab climbing.

A 60m rope gets you down in two raps, provided you stop atop the ramp system on the last rap and scramble down.

This is a fun climb to do, particularly if the weather is threatening or you are short on time. Jun 1, 2009