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Routes in The Warlock

Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Imaginary Voyage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea of Tranquility T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 467 total, 5/month
Shared By: Murf on Aug 5, 2009
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a mixed route located just above and right of the Dragon's Back. Do a reachy move off a boulder clipping a bolt. Pass the second bolt on somewhat flaky rock (crux) by a hard pull with poor feet. Continue past two more bolts to a knobby face with a crack that leans right. Follow the crack to where it ends, then move up through two more bolts. From the last bolt, finish up and left, looking for the anchor which is oddly located on a face to the left of the main summit area.

While not a bad route, this one needs some cleaning up.

Location

The best way to find the route is to circle up and right from the base of Dragonsback Area/Imaginary Voyage area. It is about 45' uphill.

Protection

6 bolts, a long sling or two for knobs, and a few pieces in the purple to red Camalot range.

Rap almost exactly 100' to your shoes.

Photos

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