Avg: 4 from 27 votes
|Type:||Trad, 9 pitches|
|FA:||E.C. Joe & John Peca (V 5.10 A4) FFA: Randy Leavitt, Tony Yaniro|
|Page Views:||49,411 total · 338/month|
|Shared By:||Mason Earle on Jul 6, 2008|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
P1-10a: Probably the least spectacular pitch of the climb, start up a greasy corner off a ledge, and continue up into the prominent corner. Continue up 5.7 to a 2-bolt belay on the right wall.
P2-5.7: "The Living Corner" Continue up the corner using features on either side, as well as the hand crack. Bolt belay out left on a ledge before corner steepens. Best 5.7 pitch on earth?
P3-10d: Continue up the corner as it steepens. Around the bulge, it eases off and the bolt belay is on the left wall. Short pitch.
P4-12a: Continue up the very thin corner passing a fixed pin near the end of the pitch. Tricky last move. Belay on the small ledge under the roof. Short pitch.
P5-12a: Campus out right, passing a fixed pin, following the crack as it widens and puts you on a massive sloping ledge. Another short pitch.
P6-5.8: Traverse out right, following the crack, eventually down climbing the slab to a flat ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
P7-12b: "The Book of Deception" Climb back up the slab to the pedestal at the base of the intimidating corner. Stem and lieback past dubious fixed gear(copperhead?) up to a hanging bolt belay.
P8-11++: Continue up the thin corner using similar techniques as the previous pitch. bolt belay on the left.
P9-10a: Climb up about ten feet and traverse out right to slabby ground, ignoring the bolt straight above you. Sprint up the final juggy slab to the top of the southern summit.
Descend by rapping off the north/highest summit. Possible with a single 70m rope.