Type: Trad, 9 pitches
FA: E.C. Joe & John Peca (V 5.10 A4) FFA: Randy Leavitt, Tony Yaniro
Page Views: 49,411 total · 338/month
Shared By: Mason Earle on Jul 6, 2008 with improvements by Josh Gates
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Romantic Warrior is considered by many to be the crown jewel of the needles. Its long, steep, hard, and by most standards, perfect. The climbing is thin and technical, with thought-provoking cruxes. Romantic Warrior boasts some of the best corner pitches in the country.

P1-10a: Probably the least spectacular pitch of the climb, start up a greasy corner off a ledge, and continue up into the prominent corner. Continue up 5.7 to a 2-bolt belay on the right wall.

P2-5.7: "The Living Corner" Continue up the corner using features on either side, as well as the hand crack. Bolt belay out left on a ledge before corner steepens. Best 5.7 pitch on earth?

P3-10d: Continue up the corner as it steepens. Around the bulge, it eases off and the bolt belay is on the left wall. Short pitch.

P4-12a: Continue up the very thin corner passing a fixed pin near the end of the pitch. Tricky last move. Belay on the small ledge under the roof. Short pitch.

P5-12a: Campus out right, passing a fixed pin, following the crack as it widens and puts you on a massive sloping ledge. Another short pitch.

P6-5.8: Traverse out right, following the crack, eventually down climbing the slab to a flat ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

P7-12b: "The Book of Deception" Climb back up the slab to the pedestal at the base of the intimidating corner. Stem and lieback past dubious fixed gear(copperhead?) up to a hanging bolt belay.

P8-11++: Continue up the thin corner using similar techniques as the previous pitch. bolt belay on the left.

P9-10a: Climb up about ten feet and traverse out right to slabby ground, ignoring the bolt straight above you. Sprint up the final juggy slab to the top of the southern summit.

Location

Approach by heading down the main gully in between the witch and sorcerer and head left as soon as possible, following the base of the cliff. once below the Warlock, head up, looking for the base of the route(the route is very obvious).

Descend by rapping off the north/highest summit. Possible with a single 70m rope.

Protection

Cams: doubles up to .5 camalot. Single green and red

Single set of nuts and micros. Maybe double set of micros.

Photos